Breva1200 fuel tank

This subject has probably been well covered before but here goes. I want to remove my brev a tank and have removed 2 breather pipes and the electric connection. how do I disconnect the fuel line without breaking the connector. Have black fuel line going into grey collar which fits into red plastic L shape which goes into tank. Presume need special tool or special pliers?

Thanks in advance 6040 howard

Here you go fella

Don’t you have to push the grey collar forwards before you try pulling it off? Or am I thinking of something else? But certainly IIRC won’t come off until fuel pressure is released (starting attempts with pump disconnected)

Thanks for comments. Looked at video but still couldn’t get the pipe diconnected! Decided to cut pipe as it was brittle and will replace whole fuel line. Another challenge!! Will let you know how it goes

The fuel line will have to withstand pump pressure so ensure all connections (usually the crimped kind) are good and the new pipe is pressure appropriate.
You can buy metal versions of the quick release connectors which are a lot better than the original plastic efforts


Thanks Chris some good points.struggled to get original pipe off the injectors as it appeared glued on as well as heat shrunk! Have now made up new fuel lines using 2 ear metal O clamps as suggested and fitted inline quick release connector.Have left original tank connector in place. Will refit injectors and airbox and get the layout of the fuel lines correct before final Y connector put in place.happy days
6040 Howard

That video makes it look too easy. I seem to remember something about having to use an open-ended spanner to push the grey collar towards the red spigot, then something clicks or something and it comes loose, then it can slide off in the opposite direction. But may not have been this exact model.

Now moved on and need torque settings for rocker box cover and tightening sequence.Also inner and outer spark plugs torque settingd? Finding it impossible to get info on brev a 1200 08? Any info would help.thanks

This may be helpful


10Nm ~ 7.4 lb-ft

No ‘sequence’ required really, just snug them down gently in turn by hand, then Torque.

Spark Plugs~

Just a personal note, I only bother with a torque wrench mostly for things like cylinder head nuts, which have to be right. For everything else I go by if it feels right or not. There have been several mistakes in published torque figures. You only need one damaged thread then you’re in a world of aggro, especially in something like a cyl head.

Agreed Mike, but many people don’t have that ‘feel’ for Torque, or automatically allow for different length Spanners/Ratchets/Knuckle Bars.

I think an ‘inexperienced’ person will more likely strip a thread by not using a Torque Wrench, than is likely from finding an incorrect figure.
Best to check at least two places for the correct figures anyway.

Many people also don’t appreciate the difference Oil/Grease/Thread-locker/Anti-Seize products etc makes to the Torque required.
Any sort of lubrication on them (and Loctite is a lube as far as threads are concerned, until it cures), and the Torque figure should be reduced by anything from 20-50%, sometimes more.

With the fuel connector, I only ever managed to undo it once. So I fitted a high pressure quick release connector. Makes life so less stressful.

I had to destroy mine to get it apart, even with the pressure released.
One of the Lugs/Tangs was damaged.
I did away with the QD idea, just joined it with a Stainless-Steel tube, four crimped O-Clips, and then lock-wired the Clips together for good measure!
I added enough Hose length so I can lift the Tank clear without having to disconnect it.