Well, finally did this today. I just rotated the wheel until the gap was at its biggest and reset the gaps, the R/h inlet was a little tight. I set them at 0.2mm inlet @ a fart in the wind looser on the exhaust.Not quite happy with the spark plug coloration, although the centre ceramic is light grey on both plugs, there was also a black raised burnt looking area on the ceramic as well. Looking at the Haynes manuals for spark plug colours. It seemed half way between running perfect and burning oil??Bike is running well, although compared to my other three air cooled bikes, which all have oil coolers, it runs hor enough to burn my forearm on the rocker box covers. Although the FJ1200 gives it a close run for being hot.
the “Raceco” reccomendation is .20mm inlet and .25 zorst but when you see Guzzi have them as tight as .10mm in-.15mm zorst the range is pretty big and that is some tolerance so you should be OK
With plug colour remember the Haynes manuals were pictured when leaded fuel was used the modern fuel does not always colour the plugs in the same way as the older type plug pictures show, well that is my understanding.
That seems quite warm for a Cali III.
Aye GB with unleaded petrol plug colour will be just shades of grey, won’t get the brown colour no more. Best you can usually manage is make sure it isn’t obviously white. That would be too lean for comfort. You can still get black sooty deposits of course. (Rich / choke)
[QUOTE=guzzibear] the “Raceco” reccomendation is .20mm inlet and .25 zorst but when you see Guzzi have them as tight as .10mm in-.15mm zorst the range is pretty big and that is some tolerance so you should be OK
 DIV][/QUOTE]
Hi GB The Raceco figures are for the EV engine. Are these the same for the Cali III?
The tight factory figures apply to later bikes but not pre noise regulation models.
Not sure where the Cali III lies on the timeline
All the best
Steve
When I looked it up it was for ALL big block 2 valve bikes the only exception was the Hydro Many non Guzzi manuals state .22mm for both considering the V11 Le mans Guzzi manual stated .10 mm and .15mm the tolerance is so huge as long as you are in the ball park of .20mm in and .23-4mm zorst your bike will run just fine.
The cali 3 is before the EV and injected bikes but well after the last round barrel 1000’s one on from the Cali 2
The engines are so similar there is no real need for concern the ONLY exception is the hydro Guzzi but change the oil use ONLY the reccomended grade and no problems.
My V1000 has run for 38 years with the combinaton of either the Haynes .22 mm all round or the raceco .20 and .25 it has done fine with the T5 square barrel 850 engine as well as the 200,000 miles on the Convert engine…
Just for reference 0.2 - 0.22 mm is about 8 thou. inch; 0.25 is around 9 - 10 thou. in old money I might try the .008 in. - .009 ex. combination… Tried .000 & .000 once, doesn’t work
[QUOTE=guzzibear] When I looked it up it was for ALL big block 2 valve bikes the only exception was the Hydro Many non Guzzi manuals state .22mm for both considering the V11 Le mans Guzzi manual stated .10 mm and .15mm the tolerance is so huge as long as you are in the ball park of .20mm in and .23-4mm zorst your bike will run just fine.
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The cali 3 is before the EV and injected bikes but well after the last round barrel 1000’s one on from the Cali 2
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The engines are so similar there is no real need for concern the ONLY exception is the hydro Guzzi but change the oil use ONLY the reccomended grade and no problems.
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My V1000 has run for 38 years with the combinaton of either the Haynes .22 mm all round or the raceco .20 and .25 it has done fine with the T5 square barrel 850 engine as well as the 200,000 miles on the Convert engine…[/QUOTE]
Seems reasonable and can’t argue with the results.
Didn’t think that there was any harm in asking the question
Steve
'Course not. But would like to mention ought to position each cyl. at TDC on the compression stroke (‘D’ or ‘S’ in clutch bellhousing ‘window’), not just ‘where gaps are biggest’. Only because the cams have ramps, ramp-cams I think they’re called (or so I’ve been led to believe), which take up the slack first before getting onto the opening slope proper. Get the crank angle just slightly wrong and the clearance(s) you set may be way too big! Guess how I know I thought a small end bearing had ‘gone’ that’s how noisy it was.
[QUOTE=Mike H]
'Course not.  But would like to mention ought to position each cyl. at TDC on the compression stroke (‘D’ or ‘S’ in clutch bellhousing ‘window’), not just ‘where gaps are biggest’. Only because the cams have ramps, ramp-cams I think they’re called (or so I’ve been led to believe), which take up the slack first before getting onto the opening slope proper. Get the crank angle just slightly wrong and the clearance(s) you set may be way too big! Guess how I know  I thought a small end bearing had ‘gone’ that’s how noisy it was.     [/QUOTE]
Good point on the need to identify compression stroke Always worth a reminder
All the best
Steve
It is no louder than it was before. and after setting them, I did rotate the engine both ways to check.1150GS2013-09-02 18:19:36
I understand these comments, there is NEVER a problem asking questions.
However Guzzi have always worked in the Metric system so I tend to stick to that rather than convert it to Thou’s
I always get the TDC by turning the rear wheel in high gear and feeling the compression stroke then I have a TDC “tool” marked at TDC for the Guzzi by using it into the plug 'ole you are very sure of TDC.
IF someone has ever taken the fly wheel off they “could” have put it back slightly out the timing marks are not always as accurate there has been a great article on here on how to use the ICEO inlet opening exhaust closing method BUT hey Guzzis are so forgiving 0.01mm either way will not make any difference on the road,
2 valve Guzzis are very easy to set tappets and other things it really is almost "fag paper and bit of string stuff. That said they are also easy to bodge.
IF you have no mechanical experience then get to a Branch and ask for help or assistance …In the Leics Branch there are a fair few very competent Guzzi spanner twirlers like me always happy to show a newbie how and where to tinker.
I have an engine on the bench and am more than happy to show and allow someone to have a go setting TDC/Timing/Tappetts etc and have done more than once, once shown it is really easy to do.
I also have shown others how to do
Brakes
oil seals
carbs
some elektrikery
I really enjoy it.guzzibear2013-09-03 11:20:38
Simple way to set the tappets is the ICEO method:- Inlet closing exhaust opening Remove the rocker covers and
plugs and put the bike in top gear. Roll the bike forwards until an
exhaust valve just starts to open. Without moving the bike, set the
inlet tappet on the same side. Next roll the bike back till the inlet
valve just starts to open. Now set the exhaust tappet for that same
cylinder. Then repeat for the other side.No chance of getting your destros and sinisters mixed up.
I’d find it easier on the centre stand. Garage not long enough.
Brian UK2013-09-03 22:22:41
Just to mention, Haynes book says “with the piston at TDC on the compression stroke” MG workshop manual says “on a cold engine with piston at TDC at the end of the compression stroke (valves fully closed).” Sorry …