Cali' 3 fork strip

Technical Big Block Tonti and Loop Frame models
1

At last I’ve found both the time, and er, the enthusiasm to replace the knackered stanchion.

Fork assembly removed, after having sprayed WD40 over any potentially siezed bits for the last fortnight, I should hope they did separate :wink:

Separated the stanchion from the lower leg (carrier?).

Dust seal removed, oil seal seems reluctant to come out using a bit of gentle persuasion, I can’t see an obvious retainer to secure the oil seal, am I missing something? I am using a fork seal removal tool.

Taking the parts to work tomorrow where it’s easier to make a mess. :laughing:

I’ll be cleaning the parts up internally, and removing the “gubbins” from the old stanchion. Is there anything that I should be either aware of, or wary of?

Thanks in anticipation.

2

Check the springs and dampers. There are much better dampers available and progressive springs are supposed to help improve the front end, but it does get expensive if you replace them all.

3

it was down to it being a tight fit. The fork seal removal tool, had nothing to catch on to, as the inside Ø of the seal is the same as the fork tube. Had to lever it out with a screwdriver.

4

If FAC Dampers and dual rate springs are available then I recommend them
Not too expensive and make a huge difference.

5

Don’t lose the eared washers at the bottom of the sliders, they stop the damper leg turning when you tighten the lower bolt.

6

I was just about to post a comment about how to tighten to M10 cap head bolts, as it just spins. what do these look like?

7

i didn’t notice these when I took the fork apart. Fairly sure there was nothing there.

Indeed there wasn’t. :slight_smile: …

I had managed to pick up an axle pinch bolt by mistake, and it’s a lot longer. :unamused: Once the correct bolt was fitted and an annealed copper washer put in place, there were no problems tightening it up. :sunglasses:

Now taken the other fork leg carrier off, as judging by the smell of the oil in the first one, it’s never been changed.

8

forget poncy springs etc. Use the correct amount of the correct oil, it will feel like a different bike.

9

Wht are your suggestions for the correct amount and grade?

I used 70cc of 10w oil.

10

I always thought the oil in the forks on a Guzzi did nothing other than lubrication. The damping is all done by the sealed cartridges.
On the older bikes, the recommended oil is Auto transmission fluid, but I would check the manual or handbook for your particular bike.
You will find one here
http://guzzitek.org/gb/accueil_gb.htm

11

I knew I had read it somewhere recently. in my copy of Guzziology :blush:

indeed it is 70cc of either fork oil or atf, as you said, it’s only for lubrication.

12

I rebuilt my forks a few years ago and was shocked how much play there was between the legs and the lowers. Don’t worry about that. It goes away when you add the oil.

13

Bike seems to ride better… probably doesn’t, probably psychological, to convince myself that I did a good job. Mind you, that oil did stink, and there was some rusting on the springs!