Cali' 3 front engine bolt

No it’s not seized in place. On the UKGSer site, this was quoted as being a problem. The other night, I went to the garage to have a look. Lo & behold, the nut & bolt both rotated.Today, as I was thinking about it, I undone the nut, at first I thought something was wrong, as despite undoing it a few turns it remained stiff, even though it was sprayed with WD40. Then I noticed that the frame was springing away from the engine. I didn’tr want to remove the bolt, as it would have meant removing a downpipe. So I exposed as much as I couldThen tightened the nut, and tightened the nut, and tightened the nutThe thread is stripped, just at the “bite” pointI was thinking along the lines of having to buy another bolt, but, I can either use a spacer so that the nut can bite on decent thread. But, to me the better alternative is to get a thicker nut, as the current one seems too thin. My thread gauges and vernier are at the back of the garage, behind the bikes.Does anyone know the thread pitch and diameter of this nut?

Dimensions: 12mm x 272mm excluding head £16.34from gutsibits

M12 x 300mm BOLT AND NUT HIGH TENSILE ZINC PLATED (NB67A)Member ID trimm51 | Feedback score of 36766 | 100.0% Quantity available: 80–£4.49

1150GS2012-11-10 19:53:28

Cheap? moi!

The standard bolt is a fine thread, not sure that it would make a lot of difference once it is tightened up

Probably why it stripped. There again, perhaps it should have been tightened by whomever stripped it, using a torque wrench. Why a half nut anyway?

What I do is use an old front bolt same dia and push the existing one out to clean it as it keeps everything lined up. The threads are fine but you do need to pop the bolt out and clean it then grease it before and after Winter cos IF they do seize they can be total gits to get out, mine had done so when I aquired the bike and I had to cut it THEN a press they use for bearings at a Heritage Steam railway wouldn’t budge it so it got spark eroded… well worth the 10-20 mins faffing cleaning and greasing it methinks

I might get one of the guys in the machine shop to drill it both ends as deep as possible & fit grease nipples both ends, with a cross hole. Then file a small flat on, so that I can pump grease into the hole.

Hardly worth the effort buddy, you will still have to rotate it and pull it to clean it. It is not too difficult to do, I tend to use copper grease on my bolt NEVER had a problem in over 20 yrs now and 200k+ miles.

Take it all the way out. thoutaghly grease it then put it back.
Do not rotate it and leave it as you will have a good chance of wiping the grease off and exposing the bare metal.
If it does seize spray with anti saize copiously twice a day for a week having removed the nut.
Continue to ride it but carefully.
Then put a scaff pole on the end of youe torque wrench and lean on it.
It will go normaly.

Are you sure you have enough room for nipples, the header pipes are very close. Also I would be worried about weakening the bolt.

Stainless steel nut and bolt smeared with copperslip and I have never had a problem, fingers crossed! To extract the bolt I use the old mild steel one as a drift. I agree with Brian that drilling out for grease nipples could weaken the bolt as there is not a lot of meat on it!

Just a thought, but has anyone tried using an impact driver while having someone use a drift/bolt on the nut side?. Would it work?

Don’t know, my method does though.

See what you mean about the grease nipple access. Don’t think it would weaken the bolt, as I was only thinking of a small Ø drill. But, as the access is crap, I won’t bother then.It’s one thing removing the bolt, a bit tedious having to remove a downpipe to access it. I recently had a leak on a 4 cylinder Yamaha, turned into a saga changing the downpipe gaskets.

1150GS2012-11-12 18:44:13

The Guzzi zorst gasket is a sandwich of either copper asbestos on a ring OR alloy with an asbestos type substance in between.

It is important to get it the right way round and not to over tighten them to get a seal ALSO if you have the split clamps that go onto the gasket make sure the gap is at between 3 o’clock and 4 oclock as viewed from the front, it makes a difference. i always have a couple of spare sets of exhaust gaskets in the garage, NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU MAY USE THEM.

I found out by accident the big block motors from 850 ritght up to the V11 Le Mans use the same exhaust gaskets too only the clamp differs

its fine thread and1/2 nut thickness as it lock the nut on better (wierd i know) lock nuts are always 1/2 thickness

I have some copper ring ones in mine they squash flat when fitted

they are made of copper tube with a filling in them bent to right diameter and then jointed

i seem to have better results with them

Fine nuts are less prone to vibrating loose, but, that’s what Loctite’s for.Those were the gaskets that gave me the problem, I call them doughnut style. replaced them with the flat ones, and all was well. Odd how one thing works for one, yet not for someone else.Something else to add to my service kit that I will be ordering from Guttsibits soon.

1150GS2012-11-13 20:49:45

thats what makes forums such good fun