I have a T3 - Im pretty certain my timing chain tensioner is defunct as there is a bit of rattle, especially at startup, its definitely not the tappets or cam followers. Is it possible to fit a new one without removing the timing chain and sprockets - or do these need to come off. If they do I’ll probably replace the chain too.
Any advice gratefully received
Russell
The standard cam chain tensioner on a T3 is manually adjusted. You have to remove the front cover and slide the slipper piece across to tension the chain.
The obvious thing is to replace it with the later sprung loaded one. I don’t think it is possible to remove the old one and fit the replacement without removing the chain and sprockets, I would do the whole job and replace the chain whilst you’re in there. It’s not a 5 minute job to get in there.
This is the old tensioner
And this is the replacement sprung loaded tensioner.
Hi Don
I already have a new type spung loaded tensioner that I bought last year when I first noticed a slight rattle - decided its time to do something about it. Pity it cant be fitted with the chain in place. Nowhere seems to have the chains available at the moment “due in stock soon” I’ll wait until they are available and do the chain at the same time.
Looks like a fairly straightforward job - if a little long winded
Many Thanks
Russell
Have a check to see if the front engine mounting bolt will move now as you will need to remove the front cover that it passes through. If it looks like it might be stuck, start treating it to regular doses of your favourite penetrating solution now.
Hi Don
already done - it was free.
Russell
I’ve seen bad stories about that slipper type tensioner, rubber bits coming off and going everywhere, or the spring breaking, so then it stops working and possibly broeken metal bits floating around. Instead I would opt for the later models’ type, if i must, which was a sprung plastic slipper shoe, I did have one once. Similar in appearance to the ‘manual’ rubber block type, but different obviously.
First of all, remove front cover (support sump before removing long bolt!) see if the block tensioner you’ve got can be tightened up, may be all that’s needed. If however the sliding plate had reached the ends of its clamp bolt slots, then a new chain is needed. (This is from Haynes manual from memory.)
Personally I would try to keep the standard block if possible, and adjusted properly - not tight! That just wears away the rubber - I think the procedure was push it up against the chain at its tightest point in the run, back off a gnat’s, and lock it there. It was never perfect, and I know people are attracted to the idea of a self-adjusting one, but I think it’s one of those cases of ‘there are no short-cuts’. Accept that there ae going to be periodic inspections and adjustments.
Unless you replace with gears. Not sure if you can still get them or how much they are. I converted my Spada, probably, 30 years ago.
Looks like they’re no longer produced. Usual suspects dont have them
Sorry I mentioned it
Its pity they arent available any more - its a fit and forget solution
Russell
Hi Russell - as you already have a sprung tensioner you don’t need this new one, however there is a new stronger chain at the bottom of the page, both items currently in stock.
See this link: Timing Chain tensioner CNC made, HMB design, 97,30 €
These parts are from Michael Behrend (HMB Guzzi), Guzzi specialist local to me in Bavaria, I have bought a lot of parts from him for my T3 rebuild.
I use to use a Rover timing chain on my T3 - can’t remember which Rover model, think it was the 2000
The bits are on order - Ill report back once complete
Russell
I don’t as not impressed with the original tensioner so fitted the HMB made design from Germany.
Just better in my opinion 
Regards Ratt
