Carb swap.

I was wondering whether my Mk2 V50 on 24mm carbs could go to 28mm from Mk3 without any issues…would like a little more power if possible whether through fuelling, cams etc. thanks

Usually carb diameter is related to inlet valve dia - check it and half of the answer is there. I am happy with 24. Not sure if advance curve has much to play in this case, but we know Bosch vs points ignition is a bit different, again, a thing to compare in manuals.

Thanks…i might be wrong but i think i have seen information that the mk3 valves were larger than in the mk2 therefore confirming what you have said. i will leave as is, unless…i can source and simply fit a V65 engine in the V50 mk2 frame :grinning:

That actually would require much more swaps - clutch, gearbox, driveshaft, air filter… and entire ignition system, as they are not compatible at all. A bit of task - you have been warned now!:slight_smile:

Here you will notice the differences:

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Google Photos

I see what you mean…is this a road you went down? The easiest option would be to get a whole v65 instead perhaps :thinking:, however there’s some sentimental attached to the v50 so i might be best tonot chase more bhp and try and lighten the v50 instead…interesting. thanks for sharing your knowledge Adam.

I had several small blocks, all across the range. And V50II is one of those nearly perfect ones:) There’s no need to alter anything: even rubbish front brake is easy to ignore thanks to fantastic rear one. Well, clutch cable rate is one per year if you use the bike as a mean of transport, but apart of that, man, honestly - it isn’t easy to improve a V50!
I know the differences as I have built two one-offs with not-so-obviously different parts picked to suit my needs. My diesel V50 uses V65, V35III, Cali, Nevada, Florida, V65Polizia parts, while Nevadoid - V35III, Breva750, V65TT, obviously Nevada drivetrain - and a whole lot of Cagiva River.
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@adamigo That does look like a proper user! What is the thing (things?) on the rocker box cover? How much Cagiva River did you use? Forks/yokes/front wheel? Or more? That info could be quite interesting as the fork action on my 750T is pretty poor……

Whole front end, incl wheel, brakes, mudguard, speedometer and yokes with longer through-head part, then all the rear frame section welded just from top shock mountings to the rear, incl rear plastic mudguard and tail light. Those 320 discs do great job but are easy to warp, especially when you buy them thin and cheap off eBay… Breva 750 should be a less of a scratch in the head job - and the disc is the same!

They’re little crash bars to protect the head in a spill.

Press “play” and see:)

Quite fun :grin: but do they have a practical purpose? Or was it a case of “because I can” ? :grinning:

Didn’t notice that at all!!! fantastic…was this an off the shelf item or did you make it? beats looking at a ducati clear clutch cover.

Purely to enjoy - because I can:))