Clutch adjustment on a big block Tonti

Hi all, I’ve been a bit flummoxed over remembering passwords to get access to the Forum so have been a bit quiet of late.
I recently couldn’t get my clutch to disengage and assumed the intermediate plain plate was buckled and struggling to get clearance to allow changes or even engaging first gear from a standstill while the engine was running.
So before tearing it all apart to replace the clutch (and renew the rear main seal etc) I started at the pivot point at the back of the gearbox. I found it easier to remove the battery and base plate and tackle the adjustment from the topside.
With everything reconnected and a tiny amount of clearance at the gearbox end I could once again operate the clutch successfully.
However, full engagement is too near full lever release at the handlebar, although the clutch is yet to slip.
My question is whether I’ve allowed too much, or not enough free play at the gearbox pivot point?

Hi Godfery, Have you reset the free play in the clutch cable after carrying out the adjustment at the gearbox end? Setting the handlebar free play to about 5mm should bring the “bite” point and fully engaged position to their normal lever positions. Setting the cable free play automatically sets the correct clearance at the gearbox lever. ie if there is free play at the handlebar lever there must be a clearance at the gearbox lever, and therefore you clutch will not slip. (unless, of course the clutch friction plates are worn out!). It should be noted that the gearbox end lever has a large mechanical advantage, ie the fixed pivot point is very close to the adjusting screw that pushes on the release bearing, whereas the pivot point for the cable attachment is a long way from the adjusting screw. Therefore cable movement is much larger than the adjusting screw movement. I hope I’m not “teaching you to suck eggs”! Hope this helps.