Hi all, I’ve been a bit flummoxed over remembering passwords to get access to the Forum so have been a bit quiet of late.
I recently couldn’t get my clutch to disengage and assumed the intermediate plain plate was buckled and struggling to get clearance to allow changes or even engaging first gear from a standstill while the engine was running.
So before tearing it all apart to replace the clutch (and renew the rear main seal etc) I started at the pivot point at the back of the gearbox. I found it easier to remove the battery and base plate and tackle the adjustment from the topside.
With everything reconnected and a tiny amount of clearance at the gearbox end I could once again operate the clutch successfully.
However, full engagement is too near full lever release at the handlebar, although the clutch is yet to slip.
My question is whether I’ve allowed too much, or not enough free play at the gearbox pivot point?
Hi Godfery, Have you reset the free play in the clutch cable after carrying out the adjustment at the gearbox end? Setting the handlebar free play to about 5mm should bring the “bite” point and fully engaged position to their normal lever positions. Setting the cable free play automatically sets the correct clearance at the gearbox lever. ie if there is free play at the handlebar lever there must be a clearance at the gearbox lever, and therefore you clutch will not slip. (unless, of course the clutch friction plates are worn out!). It should be noted that the gearbox end lever has a large mechanical advantage, ie the fixed pivot point is very close to the adjusting screw that pushes on the release bearing, whereas the pivot point for the cable attachment is a long way from the adjusting screw. Therefore cable movement is much larger than the adjusting screw movement. I hope I’m not “teaching you to suck eggs”! Hope this helps.
Cheers
Phil
Cheers Phil, you’re not teaching me to suck eggs at all. I’m grateful for all input.
I did briefly get the clutch operating normally again before it returned to misbehaving.
It never slips, and the issue is lack of disengagement so she stalls if you come to a stop without finding neutral. Then of course even engaging first entails lurching forward as you hit the starter.
There’s free play between the back of the gearbox and the pivot lever even when the free play at the clutch hand lever has minimal clearance.
I’m suspecting a warped intermediate plate or burred splines somewhere.
Apologies for the late reply as I’m hopeless at IT and passwords.
Hi Godfrey. I hear what you say in that may well be problems with the clutch plates and or splines. I don’t think you have anything to lose by adjusting the gearbox lever so that it has no free play. If you then set the handlebar lever to also have very little play, let’s say 1mm, then you know that when operating the lever you are getting maximum release of the clutch. If you still have drag then there is something wrong inside the clutch. If it fully releases and you can start the bike in gear without it lurching forward and you can engage neutral at a standstill then you have made progress. the danger is that the clutch will now slip under load. if so adjust the cable free play at the handlebar lever to the recommended 3 to 4mm. If everything is fine than you have won the battle. If the clutch does now not fully release you know for sure that there is an internal clutch problem. I’ve just had another thought. After doing all the above adjustments and assuming you have not come right then one last thing to do before delving into the clutch is to replace the release bearing. Again you have nothing to lose because if you eventually have to replace the clutch internals you would need to replace the release bearing anyway. I assume you will be able to see how to replace the release bearing.
Hope this is of use, Phil
I’m wondering if the push rod has overheated and worn at one end? That can happen if it has been adjusted too tight in the past by taking out all the free play,
When adjusting the arm on the end of the gearbox, just go for max movement before the arm hits the brake lever pivot at the cable end. Do that first then adjust your cable to suit.
I had this. It was a worn gearbox input pinion, so replaced it.
Symptom was that you could not totally disengage clutch so bike would creep fwd in gear even with clutch fully out.