I suspect that although my clutch is not slipping that the intermediate plate that’s sandwiched between the two friction plates may be warped as the small hard to access adjuster at the pivot fork on the back of the gearbox is almost flush with the locking nut and I can’t get adequate clutch free movement to freely engage a gear.
I also have an engine oil drip after a run from the hole at the lower end of the bell housing so suspect either a rear main seal is required or the breather tube is compromised. Additionally I have what looks like weepage from the rear of the gearbox so would want to be replacing any pushrod seals while it’s apart.
I’ve been studying ‘This Old Tractor’ and other threads over the job and appreciate that the the RMS must not be inserted too far onto the crankshaft’s housing recess, and to watch out for replacing certain bearings and worn splined consumables while into the job, but I’m struggling to find definitive part nos and where best to buy the parts from.
My questions are:
What are the best clutch kits to buy, and are the same part nos shared across a few models? Also any recommendations for where best to buy the clutch as well as any other parts please?
I’ve heard that some rear main seals are double lipped and better than the original. Again, whose likely to stock this item as well as any seals for the clutch pushrod.
My experience of warped plain intermediate plates, and I’ve suffered two on two different bikes, is that the bite point becomes unpredictable. I believe that this is to the amount of warp and hence the dimension of the clutch pack changing with temperature.
Anyway, I source these kinds of thing from Gutsibits. Give them a call and they’ll put you right.
I did gearbox job on my Spada a few years ago and found the guide here to be really useful for general proceedures. I don’t know about double lipped seals, I recall the one I fitted had a spiral pattern on it. Gutsibits are probably as good as any for buying the parts, Stein Dinse and Teo Lamers are both likely to attract additional customs charges.
I may have some of the cone seals on the push rod, I find the O ring is most critical for keeping the oil in and that can be measured and bought from any local seal supplier.
Yes, even a few rides ago, the bite point was getting unpredictable as well as happening at two points in the clutch lever travel. The clutch lever appeared to need to be midway in travel to engage first, rather than pulled back to the bar which resulted in an embarrassing lurch, crunch and stall😃 Thanks for the heads up on Gutsibits.
I’m probably confusing a newer spiral patterned replacement against an original fitment.
Good to hear further recommendations of Gutsibits, and thanks for the links, as other than routine maintenance and some previous valve replacement 40 odd years ago I’ve yet to delve into the guts of a Guzzi
My G5 had the worst clutch action of any Guzzi I’ve ridden, pretty much just on/off !
The splines in the flywheel, hub and plates were completely shot so I ended up replacing everything, I used a clutch assembly I had lying about which was off a Cali 1100 injection with the digiplex ignition and simply scribed the timing marks across using the old flywheel as a template, the flywheel weight was identical.
If you look in the same album there’s an easy way to keep the clutch springs in place while the engines still in the bike, by carefully closing the last coil up a little with a pair of pliers which holds then in place on the little location pillar in the flywheel,no need to stand the gearbox & engine up vertical