Bet if you take that measurement from where the Haynes manual shows it will be the 30-33mm But as I pointed out get it to a right angle, not easy with a curved clutch arm but when you LOOK at it it does become very obvious. The free play at the lever IS critical…
Well I just did mine by eye until it looked right, measured it just now, 42 mm! Which bears no relation to any previuous numbers
Thanks, yes VERY aware of the need for this.
Cheers Darryl
[QUOTE=Mike H]
Well I just did mine by eye until it looked right, measured it just now, 42 mm! Which bears no relation to any previuous numbers   [/QUOTE]
Thought I’d measure mine too, didn’t bother taking brake pedal off, wiggled gauge behind it and got about 41/42mm also, clutch seems good at that, light with free play at lever.
doncha just lurve Guzzis
Factory chat “Ayy Luigi ow mucha you do a da Clutch?”
"Ohh eees about dees much ( opens finger and thumb) "
“Howkay mayte!”
Yes, the two go together because there really is no such thing as a free lunch.
Mechanical work done = force x distance travelled (in the direction of the force)
Since the amount of work done against the clutch springs remains the same the smallest force (light clutch) will also involve the maximum lever travel.
Of course, none of this will help when I am barking my knuckles on the sump on Saturday!
Have fitted the new cable but I am now puzzled. When I looked at the lever arm it seemed to be at about 90 degrees to the push rod so I decided to leave well enough alone and just greased everything I could get to. I then fitted the new cable. With the old cable my adjusters were at near maximum which I attributed to cable stretch. However, I have had to take the adjusters out even further with the new cable (genuine Guzzi) and clutch disengagement is now right at the end of lever travel. Any ideas?
the arm needs to be at right angles to the cable end use the rod end to adjust it then the gearbox and brake lever they should all be loose to start with. there are however different length clutch cables and sometimes spares places pull the wrong one from the parts bin
I always measure old cable outer and inner before ordering a new one…
On mine the locknuts are about 2 thirds - 3 quarters or so from the end of the threaded bit, if that helps. Unlike what above drawing implies, they’re both in front of the gearbox flange, and nipped up together to lock the position. By the way make sure that when fully pulled, the arm does not touch the back of the gearbox casing. A few mm here and that’s your optimum position I reckon. In fact readjusted mine (after rebuild fracas yesterday) now 43 - 44mm. HTH
Cheers guys,
Just finished some gardening and about to go back in on the clutch. I will really have a look at the push rod operating lever first of all. If that doesn’t sort it out I will take the cable off and compare old and new. Will update you in a couple of hours.
OK. It seems I was fooled by the curvature of the operating arm. The push rod was at 90 degrees to the operating arm at the point of contact but the actual angle was smaller resulting in the end of the arm only being about 25 mm from the bush on the gearbox when the arm started to bear on the push rod. Hence the need to max out the adjusters and still only barely being able to disengage the clutch. I set it to roughly 90 degrees by eye (fortunately I could turn the adjuster with my fingers as I have no idea how I would get a tool on it!) This gave me distance from cable arm to bush of roughly 50 mm (I haven’t put a ruler on it yet) so, so far so good. I then set the adjuster and ended up with the gearbox adjuster pretty much as described by Mike H and only a small adjustment needed at the lever (which is a good thing as, if you really open up this adjuster, the rubber boot which protects the cable end does not fit.) What is the clutch like? Well, I would say still pretty heavy. I can operate it with two fingers but don’t know how long I would last in heavy traffic like that. Cooking Sunday dinner now. Will go for a test ride after.
Again I may be confused as to what a '97 Cali has here but on my Tonti the adjuster screw has a flat end like for pliers to grip and a locknut for 13mm spanner. The locknut must be nipped up to secure it! Else 'twill all come undone and fall out on’t road… Pulling clutch lever with 2 fingers is doing very well IMO ~
Hi Mike,
Mine is a 2003 Cali Stone and is still exactly as you described. I adjusted it with my fingers and held it with pliers when I was tightening the locknut. I have been out for a ride now and take back my earlier statement. The clutch is considerably lighter. I wasn’t wearing gloves earlier nor was I sitting on the bike so my pull was not what I would naturally do on the bike. I think I will do a bit of final adjusting during the week to reduce the amount of adjustment at the bars (that rubber boot again) and to get the bite exactly where I have maximum control. All in all I am well pleased. Another triumph for the forum!
It is fairly easy to make a small tool to hold the square end.
a bit of alloy about 2-3" long 1" wide grind down the sides and cut a notch in it.
Tip : You can use the rocker arm adjuster as a template for the tool “notch” as they are basically the same.
I aslo have a very small spanner that fits it as well alot easier than trying to use a pair of pliers whilst under the bike and a spanner as well
Glad you’ve got sorted