Hi,
can anyone give me a run down on the procedure/measurements etc for correctly setting the clutch actuating arm on the back of the gearbox on my 97 California 1100i.
When looking at the arm from underneath, i can see a lock nut on the back of it and a small coil spring, but is there something else that I am missing?
I want to set the Clutch up properly and this seems the obvious place to start before I adjust cables.
Lastly, are the adjustments/measurements made to the arm with the clutch cable disconnected from it
Many thanks DarrylDazGuzzi2013-06-02 10:57:01
According to the G5 manual the gap between the clutch outer cable boss and the clutch cable nipple groove (C in the above picture) should be 75 mm.
Loosen cables
The clutch adjuster is very similar to the tappett so undo the outer lock nut and adjust the centre so the arm is as per the manual for YOUR bike
Arm @ 90 deg to pushrod
THEN set the cable end at the gearbox so the cable end of the arm is again as per manual measuring distance from the end of the arm, where the cable nipple is to the lug on the gearbox.
On used bikes the inner face of the adjuster lug (rear) of the cable adj on the gearbox and the curved part of the clutch arm, where the cable nipple fits 30mm on new bikes or new clutch 33mm
Finally set the free play at the lever end.
4mm (1/8") at the ball end of the lever
Done correctly the clutch is light and very easy to work, Oh yeah make sure the cable run is smoooth with no tight bends …My V1000 is very similar and the clutch is often commented on as being “So light”
the italics is from the haynes manual
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That is only part of the clutch adjustment it needs that then the clutch end from gearbox lug then free play at bar end, it does take time to sort it, BUT the lightness of the clutch and subsequent ease of gearchanges etc makes it worthwhile and once you get it all right ONCE it does become easier.
Hi guys thanks for the help so far.
Can you just please confirm that the measurement that I need to attain is 75mm between the centre of where the clutch cable nipple would be on the arm and the lug on the gearbox that the outer clutch cable screws into.
Also that this measurement is with the cable disconnected and the arm fully extended.
Just a little confused with two very different measurements being quoted.
I am entirely happy now with how I adjust it as I have done the tappets before and this does look very similar.
Thanks Darryl
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In your pic the gap is too large, use the nut on the back of the gearbox and set the arm so that the end of the clutch arm is at 90 degrees according to haynes it should be 30-33mm BUT without clutch nipple in it if you get it so it is at a rt angle you wil not be far off THEN with nipple in set the free play at the lever end. try that it should feel an amazing amount lighter action
Not sure about your picture as the G5 doesn’t have the small tubular extension on the clutch outer cable mounting boss.
An alternative, as mentioned above, is that at the mid point in it’s travel the clutch cable should be at 90 degrees to a line drawn between the cable nipple and the clutch arm pivot pin.
gtmdriver2013-06-02 17:59:30
Having just done mine again, I now think this measurement must be bollox / misprint / typo. No way will it do 75mm, A. there’s such a huge gap between arm and its coil spring not only will spring not reach but it will just fall out, B. the pedal pivot won’t let it go back far enough to get 75mm (as demo’d in your pic, although you’ve got footboards so pivot point on lower frame rail isn’t being used so has a rubber bung in it?),C. cable won’t reach despite slackening off everything,D. adjuster screw is stupid angle relative to end of rod. In the end I set it up so that the adjuster screw is inline with the pushrod when clutch is fully pulled (and nearly inline when released ~ and I then remembered doing like this before!). This is difficult to see, unless battery and base removed then is obvious looking down on it from the top. Basically, set it up so arm doesn’t foul A. pedal pivot and B. gearbox housing, then should be good to go. Guess what my cable adjuster nuts ended up in exactly the same position as when bike were last used! Even though different gearbox HTH
Mike H2013-06-02 18:34:23
IT Is a misprint it should be 30mm-33mm Years ago new to Guzzis after having a few Hondas i used to crawl under it, set the clutch and get all grubby get out the vernier guage. Then after chatting to folk at V twins and such, well known Guzzi spannerados i realised summat
GUZZI’S are simple machines. to set up the clutch make sure the arm is abt rt angle to the lug and then make sure there IS free play at the bars…job dun…not surprised the clutch setting is the same the boxes are the same…
The mechanicals (apart from subtle changes) are mostly the same until they stuffed the 6 speed box into the V11 series and even then it is only really the gearbox and FI that is way different I bet you could even retro fit the V11 Le mans hydraulic clutch operation to an older bike…now there’s a thought for a project peeps
Even stuff like tappets have a hell of a tolerance sure looser IS better but LOOK at the difference between US Factory settings to reduce noise and the reccomended Guzzi ones and then the Raceco ones…hell the tolerance is MORE than most HondasuzukiKawayamahas are SET at
Stuff liek oil is hellish tolerant apart from the Hydro bike even the V11 Le Mans manual states 20/50 oil
When I first opened Guzziology and read daves first cmment re spares and how to test old parts it made me smile.guzzibear2013-06-02 19:14:45
OK ta 30 - 33 is more like it
Sorry about the misinformation but that’s what it says in the G5 manual honest!
Thanks GTM, you can only tell me what was in your manual.
Just out of interest, I know that you did a lovely job of restoring your bike. What measurements did you actually use for this arm and what is the measurement now with your cable fully attached.
many thanks Darryl
BRILLIANT!
Exactly what I was after and that is what mine is currently set at.
May well just leave it alone as the clutch is light and smooth currently.
Many thanks Darryl DazGuzzi2013-06-03 13:26:23
Well that’s what you want.
I know it is, I’ve got one too!
WARNING ENSURE THAT ON COMPLETING YOUR CABLE INSTALATION YOU HAVE A FEW MIL FREE PLAY AT YOUR CLUTCH LEVER HANDLE BAR END, IF YOU DONT YOU WILL STAND A CHANCE OF WELDING THE PUSHROD BEARING ASSEMBLY TOGETHER
Hi guys,
Just picked up on this thread and it will all come in very useful as I plan to replace the clutch cable on my Cali this weekend.
From a physics point of view the 90 degree (right angle) advice makes sense as this will give the maximum turning moment on the lever arm for any given force applied via the clutch cable and hence the lightest clutch action.
I will get my spanners out!
… and also the maximum lever travel for a given cable movement.