So I have owned my current Le Mans for almost 2 months now and during that time I have taken a non-purist approach to sorting out some issues sensibly, but I am not sure how far I should go non-purist.
I read that due to lack of clear categorisation when they were first made, it is unlikely anyone would know a 100% original bike, and I have applied and noted the following changes so far …
1 Re-wire - the wiring was simply awful so I have replaced 95% of it, but I haven’t used original cable colour marks but instead decent tinned cable mostly in blue, brown, red, orange and black. I have re-laid out the awful original diagram into a block format and I am using cable numbers instead of colours to positively identify the cables.
2 The left bar switch cluster is obviously Japanese and I have added a new Ebay sourced right hadn’t bar cluster for start and run / stop. I believe these are both very sensible changes as I recall the original bar switch gear was atrocious.
3 The frame number bears out the bike is an authentic batch 1 Le Mans (Mk1 - but they were not then called a Mk 1 of course) 12832 The engine is 76410 and this appears correct but can’t find a concise engine number reference.
4 That said the alternator cover is black plastic, which I thought came in later one the Mk II.
5 The rectifier is a Lucas and not the original Bosch. The Lucas as found was rotten so I have found the same new replacement.
6 As part of the re-wire I have changed all the lamps to LED. The jury is stiLl out on the canbus compensated bulb for the generator. At first start last Friday the alternator did not excite, so I have ordered a 68ohm 2W resistor to wire in parallel with the warning lamp, so we will see if that works.
Using LEDs in the display is a real step forward as the lamps are actually very clearly visible, which I recall was never the case with the original dim filament bulbs.
The headlight is amazing.
7 For some reason the prior owners had slackened off the brake caliper main assembly bolts leading to fluid leakage from all three. I have fitted service kits although most internal were actually very good apart from two slightly rusted servo pistons on one front caliper, which are now replaced.
A slight anomaly as the rear caliper has a 48mm Brembo with both front being 38mm.
I have had trouble getting the brakes bled and suspect the rear master might be goosed. It is now working, but not sure how much pressure it puts out, so once it is properly working I will take it to a MOT tester’s rolling brake test machine (bike is > 40 years old so no need for an actual MOT).
8 I am now on to the engine and had the first start on Friday, where I observed the coil caps sparkling light a Xmas tree. I have stripped all the coils and HT parts, which have been through both my ultrasonic cleaner and the dishwasher. I have cleaned the coil tops with a dremel brass wire brush and a scrub with kerosene and ordered new red HT lead.
The ignition is original non-electronic and TBH I would prefer to not add an electronic set up, but what is the panel view of this ?
If suggesting I should fit electronic ignition who’s is best for an early Guzzi ?
9 The engine and gearbox were a bit dowdy and oily but using some alloy wheel cleaner has had and amazing result, but I suspect much of the anodising has gone because in a cold workshop she sweats and produces a white powdery finish on the now clean alloy casings. Anything suggested to re-seal the aluminium would be welcome.
10 During the re-assembly I have used a mix of A2 & A4 stainless fittings. In my other life I am a boat enthusiast and have easy access to decent marine quality 316 stainless fittings, but from Ebay A2 are generally easier to find and cheaper. I am not interested in re-using the original rusty and horrible original nuts and bolts.
I have also now bought a helicoil kit as one of the alternator cover bolts has stripped its thread.
11 The external shiny bits may not be original - side covers and front mudguard. All are very clean and sound and I suspect a prior owner has undertaken a superficial upgrade. She does have an original early batch 1 round tail light, which works well with its LED bulb.
12 The flasher relay does not like the low power LEDs so I tried an LED flasher, but hat has a horribly flash pattern so I have now bought a set of LED indicator ballast resistors so I can re-use the original flasher - I will come back further on how well these work.
Anyway I am aiming to have her first road trip ready for the start of March, possibly sooner if the sun ever comes out again !
Feed back very welcome.
Trevor
