To compound my electrical issues found that the flee bay box of assorted crimps are next to useless. Fitted meticulously with heat shrink etc and pushed on nice n tight. A month later they are loose to the point of falling off !! Seem to loose their grip anyway all my previous wiring will now have to be redone.
What a pain
Anyone know where to get quality BS standard crimps ? Similarly some cable ties are very poorly made.
Regards Ratt
The most secure way is to solder the lugs on, slide heat shrink on first !!
I always solder uninsulated crimped terminals and use pre made covers for spades. Example https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/uninsulated-push-on-terminals-6-3-x-0-8mm-8319?gclid=CjwKCAjw97P5BRBQEiwAGflV6cgjBrfV7cu40byC-l_t4az0E4rmDRyu0Umm7kHFK1IoQ1TqQhAEbxoC_VIQAvD_BwE and insulators https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/pvc-boot-6-3mm-dble-cble-entry you can also get these in black.
Tie wraps I have never had an issue with. https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/cable-management-solutions/nylon-cable-ties
I have not bought from Cable Craft myself, and show these as examples of what I use. They are in the UK and manufacture in the UK. According to their about us page they are apparently striving to be the market leader!
Best of luck
I always (always) solder.
Vehicle wiring products,
Always crimp with their stuff, (ratchet crimper)
No problem
Agree - crimping is almost universally used for OEM wiring, but you need good tools.
I read an article that said that soldered joints are more likely to fail in fatigue due to the sudden change in stiffness.
What Phil said, I get most of my stuff now from VWP, and yes you need a kosher tool and good quality terminals, i.e. ones that stay done up after you’ve squeezed 'em 
Avoid the blue/red sleeved ones like the plague, I always try to use the plain uninsulated ones, with slide-on insulating covers. All on VWP site I believe.
Soldering is so overrated
Soldering is great, but it’s not recommended, as it can lead to fatigue failure of the wire.
No OEM automotive wiring suppliers solder, it’s all crimp, but then again, crimping can be automated, and is way cheaper.
That said, if the joint is shrink wrapped, and the solder has a non corrosive flux, I’d expect it to last years.
Atb
Simon
Never been convinced by that one, I’ve certainly not experienced it. Given that copper is prone to very quickly work hardening anyway, and which would then lead to an inevitable failure if it is in a position where it is continually flexing I don’t get it.
I just use decent quality crimps and a suitable crimper. Never soldered any and not had a problem myself. Thats all the factory ever used.
I always crimp with none insulated terminals and good quality tools. There was an argument, sorry discussion about this elsewhere recently. Some folk advocate soldering but as I discovered after some research, the wiring looms made for front line fighter aircraft are crimped. If it’s good enough for a Tornado it’s good enough for a Guzzi. Just avoid the pre-insulated red, blue and yellow crap.
Just my opinion, and that of the aerospace industry.
As pointed out here, terminals in the harness are generally crimped. There are however certain instances when soldering is preferred, but not many.
And again…https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/solder-vs-crimping/
This is what a guy who does it for a living says: https://www.kmpdrivetrain.com/general/practical-tips-motorsport-wiring-harnesses/
I spent the thick end of 30 years as a Chartered Engineer in the auto industry, and I believe I have only seen a soldered joint within a wiring harness on a handful of cases, maybe 3, maybe 4. It is really rare.
I can believe that the aerospace industry only crimps, though I’ve seen that NASA uses soldered joints.
Generally the marine industry supplies ready made wiring to go with instruments. Some of those are supplied “bare ends” to be connected to a screw clamp, and I have certainly seen the bare ends solder-dipped. The advice is to always fix cables down so they do not vibrate, and this is clearly the practice in the aero industry too, and that would help avoid the flexure that will cause copper wire to fatigue and fail.
The world won’t end if you solder wires to connectors, and providing you insulate and support them properly, they’ll probably last many years, and if it does fail, it’ll only be you that needs to sort it out.
But if you’re a volume car builder, and you have a couple of thousand connections in every car, and you make a quarter of a million cars a year, you wouldn’t need much of a failure rate to bring you to your knees. Car makers aim for better than 10 failures per million parts. You can work out why. And imagine it’s something critical, on which life depends. The lawsuits! You’d better believe that the electrical engineering staff in vehicle manufacturers know how to make a reliable connection. Like I said, they don’t solder.
Atb
Simon
I generally just crimp with uninsulated crimps but l always use the adhesive heat shrink sleeving which makes a lovely professional looking job.
Cheers Ian