Hi Guys i’m lookng at a 1100 carb model which has a rattle in neutral and when clutch is depressed. Is this normal or a sign of expensive things to come? No abdornal noise in gear or difficulty changing.Thanks in advance.
They all do that sir! the clutch rattle is no where near as loud as on a Dooo caaah tee (That’s the ‘merican pronunciation y’ see )
Ok thanks, I’ve got a T3 and I don’t get any rattle, is the Daytona a dry clutch system?
My V11 Le mans does the same so i would think it is quite normal.
Yep different to the T3 and altho T3 and older bikes are a dry clutch they don’t seem to rattle, no idea why, Just the newer bikes do, mind you …it can always be tried as a bargaining tool … depends if the owner knows his Guzzis I guess.
Hi folks is my memory playing tricks with me, But i can only remember Daytonas being 1000cc I thought the only 1100’s were the 2 valve sport models. please do correct me if I am wrong the wife does so I’m use to itregards Keith
Ok thanks chaps
Yep my mistake it is the 1100 Sport, not the Daytona. Picking it this arvo so will see for my own eye & ears.
Not related to your current rattle but one to maybe watch out for on the early Sport Carbs is any whine in 5th caused by case hardening on the straight-cut gears flaking off.Remedy is to place the 5th gear pair with the helical cut one’s from the later Sport/Daytona - straight swap.
I’m taking it for a service and MOT tomorrow, think I’ll change the gearbox oil just to see if there are any floaty bits. Does the 1100 use bog standard oil or should I be useing some special gearbox oil?
EP 90 same for the drive box
I use EP 85W-140 in the gearbox and bevel box on all the big twins. Others swear by Redline Heavy ShockProof for the gearbox.If you change the bevel box oil it’s a good idea to drain and then fill by measured amount. Take it for a run to let the oil heat up and then ‘burp’ it through the filler. Because it’s a sealed box unlike the Tonti bikes, and has a smaller volume, when it cools down it will exert a negative pressure on the seals, helping to prevent leaks.Don’t forget to grease the UJ’s on the exposed driveline as well.
Do you add moly?
Moly in bevel box I tend to put a ptfe additive in the gearbox BUT I did find Morreys really good stuff
Ah this is confusing me. I can’t find any service data for this bike. IE Volumes and viscosities.I’ve got 10w40 Castrol GTX for the engine and EPX80-90 for the Gear box, I’ve heard about putting moly in the bevel but no volumes, but as it’s a sealed unit why should I bother changing it?Can anyone point me in the directions to service data such as this. The this oldtraktor website really only talks about the round heads.
No matter found it all here :)Thanks chaps
Sorry to keep coming back on this. But where the hell do I find Molykote Type A? Is there a UK equiv name about, Halfords do Molypaste but I don’t think this is what I need.Any clues?
Moly slip for gearboxes is what I use and the bevel boxes other than carc stuff are all similar,
The V11 sport/ le mans has these
Ep90 @ .85 litre for gearbox but this is a 6 speed box
bevel box ep 90 @ .37 litre of which .35 ep 90 and .020 moly
Never used Molykote.
According to Paul Harris and others it is a left over requirement from the '60’s. With modern (post 1980) oils not needed.
Well found the Molyslip in Halfords. Went with it as it recommends it in the workshop manual and thats modern. Don’t want to risk my bevel going, it went on my V50 once and it wasn’t fun, fortunatly it was a country road and my only close victum was a sheep eating verge.