So now my T5 is back on the road, I’ve got a spare blown Diode Board, I can get a new one for £60 but I’m SURE there must be some electrical wizard out there, that I can send the blown one too for repair…?
Any ideas lads…?
The diodes are available and not too difficult to replace.
Whether it’s cost effective to have someone else do the work at £X per hour is another matter.
All the best
Steve
Reminds me of my pal who’s a database administrator for Oracle. His next door neighbour asks him if he’ll look at his PC that’s died. He get’s all the data off the old HDD. Re-loads windows onto the new drive and restores all the data. Takes him about 6 hours and he donated the drive from his spares box. Neighbour buys him four cans of beer; so that’s the last thing he’s ever likely to do for him, but lesson learned
The paradox of developing skills
“If I was a useless bum nobody would ever ask me to do stuff”
Have fun (and thanks for the drawings!)
Steve
You could try Towsertronics, he’s a good bloke and a club member. He’s on the Links, commercial page on this website or just Google. Best of luck.
[quote]The diodes are available and not too difficult to replace.
Whether it’s cost effective to have someone else do the work at £X per hour is another matter.
All the best
Steve[/quote]
Where would you get them from?
Mike H2014-07-22 09:06:05
get te diode,s off eblag
think some late 1970’s early 1980’s BMW’s used the same unit, check the BMW spares people like Motorworks in HuddersfieldI seem to remember reading somewhere that with Diode’s the power only runs one way so if you do replace them make sure they are fitted right.
That’s what diodes are for.They used to be dead cheap, probobly still are, replace one at a time so as to get them right.
Yes they’re used on R series twins (at least) as charging system is basically identical.
However of the 6 big diodes there’s two flavours, one where the metal body is anode and for the other it’s cathode. Think I did see the 2 different part numbers once, on eBay? but no chance remembering what they are!
This makes it a bit easier to check out.
As an aside, sometimes ‘A’ is not used. On mine there’s tracks on the board but no holes for component leads and no components. Ditto no blade connector for the blue wire. Previous owner soldered a bit of wire to the board just to connect the blue wire to something (completely irrelevant as it doesn’t go any further, could’ve just taped up the wire disconnected). When I rewired last year just omitted the blue wire from the loom.
‘B’ or ‘C’ is the output to regulator. Just for convenience the other merely connects the dash charge light.
HTH
Blue wire to charging idiot light?
No that one (‘pale blue’) comes from a centre-tap on the alternator. True there is ANOTHER blue from ‘B’ (?) to charge light.
Yes, maybe I should have shown the whole charging diagram, here it it.
Bikeralw’s drawing is as it should be, make sure you put the ‘ground’
(earth) wire in the same loction as the drawing, the top half of the
unit, where the main red feed wires go, is the 'live half, the bottom
half is the ground ‘earth’ side.