Distributor oil leak on T3

Looks like I have to replace the gasket under the distributor on my T3 Cali.
Any words of wisdom? Dreading it.

Usual stuff ref tank off, disconnect wiring etc
Give the area around the dizzy a good clean and mark it’s position in 2 or 3 places. I usually use tipex as the marks are easier to match later.
Loosen the 8mm bolts with a crows foot or other adapted spanner (saves loads of time and they’re cheap)
Lift out the dizzie, give it a clean and put the new gasket in. I use a smear of grease to ease movement when refitting.
Good luck

I did this last year on my S3 (same dizzy as T3) and used a loop frame distributor gasket 750 as recommended by Guzziology, it’s larger and less prone to tearing, order a couple in case you break the first. I also added a fine film of red gasket stuff, now no more leak. Mark as Steve said. Good luck!

Thanks chaps. I bought 3 gaskets from Corsa Italiana just in case. I am paranoid about losing the timing. I am sure it is not “dead on” for both left and right cylinders even now. It will have to wait as I head to Germany on a business trip tomorrow.

Guzziology describes the method of refitting the distributor if you have access to a copy.

When removing/refitting the distributor getting the timing back to the right tooth (distributor gear to cam gear) is fiddly but not difficult - first turn the engine so that the D mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark in the timing window and right hand cylinder is on compression stroke.You should then see that the points for the right hand cylinder have just opened. Then make a mark on both the body of the distributor and the crankcase where the distributor fits against the crankcase .When you lift the distributor body out,the points cam will ‘skew’ - try to judge the position of the points cam as it comes off the ‘skew’ Grease the new gasket - best not to use gasket cement unless you are certain the distributor position will never need adjusting, then reinsert the distributor with the points cam at the same place as where it left the ‘skew’ - once seated, with the body/crankcase marks aligned, check to see that the points for the right hand cylinder have just opened as before - if not lift up again and try a different pre ‘skew’ start position, it’s trial and error but usually achievable in a couple of goes.
That deals with the timing as far as distributor position goes, if that’s as before then your timing should be as before.
Good Luck NormanNormski2014-03-23 12:55:39

I always used to grease these gaskets but they kept on leaking, so that’s why I used a fine film (note fine film) of red silicon. Was fine to check timing with strobe then bolt down and now it’s done the job. May also be worth checking the breather system too as a leak under the distributor can sometimes mean it’s not breathing as well as it should.

As said check it’s not actually a breather hose leak, as will also make same area oily.

As said (2) put engine TDC right cyl (D on flywheel) compression stroke before you take it out, then when you put it back, when the teeth are meshed in the right position RH points should be just on the point of opening then it’s right.

Note also however dizzy shaft has an O ring, if this is leaking (blow past) oil will come out the bottom of the dizzy where it has 2 drain / breather holes. Not unknown and a possible explanation for persistent ‘gasket leaks’, cos it isn’t actually. So check inside of dizzy for signs of excessive engine oil.


good point Mike, I’ve amended my post

The only reason you have to be careful about how it goes back in is that the distributor body may be further around when you time it.


Due to the angle of the worm drive teeth

I decided to give the whole area around the distributor a good clean with brake and clutch cleaner spray. On starting up the bike I could see the oil coming out around the vent system hose that comes out of the top of the bell housing up to the Le Mans breather box. I took it all to bits and found the hose was split inside and very perished on the inside. I had to buy one metre of the hose from Halfords as they would not sell me a couple of inches. I decided to replace the 6mm hose as well while I had it in bits. I installed new jubilee clips too. Anyway, it is all back together now and I ran her up to full temperature yesterday without a leak!

Well that was a result. A lot simpler than pulling the distributor out.

Look for the braided hoses on e-bay for future nitrile 6mm and 8mm as well as other sizes McGills are good, you can use a jubilee clip with some thinner nitrile hose as an end clamp (It is what Guzzi use on the fuel hose of the V11 Le Mans

1 metre will just about do the fuel pipes 2 metres will cover fuel and oil pipes on the V1000

Ah there you go then, not distributor after all. Worth bearing in mind.