ECU - remapping and dyno

Has anyone had their injected bike re-mapped and dynoed? Not a bolt on commander but ECU remapping.

If so which place did you get this done and was the service and results worthwhile?

Also how perfect a state of setup did you take it there in, for instance cylinder pressures matched, throttles balanced, new filter, new plugs, etc?

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Easy enough to Remap it yourself Brian.
You need a Laptop, a cheap used one will do (£50-70), and a set of Cables to connect it to the Bike (£25).
Proven Maps can be had for free, no real need for a Dyno run.
I’ve done mine, and a few others, with good results.
You won’t get any more power from the CARC 1200s with considerable mods/expense, but you can vastly improve the Fuelling in the low and mid-range.

I have replaced the map previously with various types and most of them are not giving the low throttle low speed smoothness that I want when filtering. Ideally I would be altering the fueling for small throttle openings. My main criteria is smoothness, economy and ride-ability.

I can do all the usual maintenance bits such as cleaning and balancing throttles, resetting TPS adjusting throttle cables, backing up and restoring maps etc.

I saw that someone has been on dyno for mapping in the club magazine [BDS Peterborough I believe] and would be interested in seeing if the figures and pictures before and after show better fuel economy and a flatter torque curve.

Whose Maps have you tried Brian?
The guy that did the one I have (John Brooks) concentrates on the Low-Mid Rev Range primarily.

My Stelvio has never had any of the usual issues around the 3-4000rpm area, it’s always been silky-smooth right through the Revs.
The Map I have now improved it even further though, it’ll now go right down to 2000 rpm in sixth, and pull away cleanly.
Not a regular habit of mine, but I just tried it to see if it was any better than the last map (which wasn’t ‘happy’ below 3000 in top).
It feels more ‘eager’ to rev low down too, with a slightly stronger mid-range.

I’ve also adjusted the Speedo Correction so it reads the same as GPS Speed, and set the Fuelling so the fuel cuts off completely on a closed Throttle, above 2750 rpm.

Is yours a 2-Lambda model?
John only has a 2-Lambda Stelvio to do his development on, so his 2-Lambda Maps are much more developed than those for a single-Lambda (mine).

If you’d like to try one, PM me for John’s contact details.

I have tied a few different maps, but I have a modified baffle installed, currently as I need a slightly quieter bike for early mornings and most of the maps are tuned for different makes of silencer [to what I have] so there is always a slight mismatch. My main gripe is the low throttle slow speed aspect which none of the maps I have tried seem to address to my liking.

An issue that I am currently looking at is I have a faulty stepper motor (IAC) and while I am working on getting a repaired one in place (new IAC innereds) I have blocked it off so not using it. So far I have done around 6k miles with it disconnected from airbox (blanked). Runs fine even in cold weather, so I am trying to work out if to remove it’s connection pipes and blank properly. Now the stepper is to maintain the idle speed based on temps, TPS,tickover etc

All I am after is fuel economy along with smooth pickup, not worried about horse power gains

I adjusted the speedo to via TunerPro as well - I do need to be convinced that I need to turn off the Lambda sensor as it is integral to adjusting fuel Air ratio.

It’s like a big can of worms

Forgot to mention that I have single Lambda (my std maps have the option of 2 lambda) and use Beetle maps or stock. It may be that your maps do address the issue I have with low speed small throttle.

Having tried a few maps I decided to take it to a shop and get it dyno tuned and I must say it has transformed the bike.

I was told before hand that the 8v motors run weak and that the end result would not produce huge HP and torque increase.

It was interesting in as much the operator showed me the maps and was pointing in out that there large areas of fuelling that were wrong either weak or rich.

The end result was no power band which you tend to get around 5K; but smooth constant power from around 2K to redline and filtering is a joy now. the exhaust note has changed and sounds more rounded [for want of a description] and mellow not sharp and staccato.

Fuel consumption with this map is around 40, 41mpg based on fuel put in tank and miles covered on a consistent/repeated varied journey, motorway consumption is better.

Pretty much what I get from the Map in mine.
Averaging 42mpg over the last 8000 miles or so, calculated, not taken from the Dash readout.
I’ll get nearly 200 miles from a full Tank (17litres) on a long steady run, which is around 52mpg.
Happy with that!

Some time has passed now and the map seemed to be running a bit rich so I have weakened it off using the CO trim setting. The upshot of this is that I am now getting 45 to 49 mpg and around 220 per tank and still retained all the good bits.

That’s good!

I’m using a Mark (Beetle) Bayley Map now, and HOLY CP** it’s fantastic!

I thought the previous map was good (John Brook’s), well it was, but Mark’s is just noticeably better everywhere.
As John admits, his single Lambda Maps aren’t as developed as the Dual versions, as he’d done all his development and testing on his own 2-Lambda Stelvio.

Opening the Throttle at any revs produces a deep ‘Growl’, and it storms up to the red-line so much stronger than before.
Fuel consumption is about the same, if not a little better, which is surprising considering I’ve been using more of the rev-range, as it’s just so addictive!

Any chance of someone contacting me via PM as I have a Griso which isn’t particularly good at low speed. On the forum Griso Ghetto the name nettle keeps popping up however he’s USA and frankly some off the terms are beyond me. Most Dyno shops here seem to want to slave a power commander which seems to me to by pass what’s needed ?
Regards Ratt

Beetle :+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::+1::flushed:

Beetle is in Oz.
He has through trial and error made a range of maps for GRiSOs (all single lambda W5AM ecu)
As open silencers seem to ruin the low to mid power with no top end advantage he will not offer to make new maps for open pipes.

If you join GRiSO ghetto he has made up instructions for getting and using a piece of software called GuzziDiag which allows you to check for error messages, clear them as needed, complete the 6,000 mile service and load different maps into the ecu.

Beetle will supply maps for about £100 (i can’t remember) but they are worth it. Apart from the torque and the smoothness i now get 46mpg so that is about 35 miles further from every tankfull. pays for itself in about 2000 miles :smiley:

A power commander just distorts the input signals that the ecu receives to fool it into a different fueling pattern - not as accurate or tailored as a re-map

Thanks for the reply’s will again have a look on the Griso ghetto and try to assimilate the information. Certainly I have discounted the idea of a power commander and from recommendation at last spoke to someone who seems to know what their doing BSD Peterborough, that’s the problem a bit of a trek from Gloucester. One question I assume you set the TPS first something I’ve not done ? Thanks again Ratt

I have used BSD near Peterborough and they did a good job, my only issue was that the map was too rich for me and not giving me the economy I was after, they did alter the map for me (re-visit from Kent). I gather that hilltop are good, certainly are with BMW and they are hinckley way which may be easier to get to.

If you are going to do your own servicing then you will be resetting the tps and you will want to run guzzidiag too. Trepidation first time but after that no worries.

Thanks Brian after the laptop went kaput I never replaced it just used my I phone if I can get my lad motivated I’m sure we could do something he uses An Apple Mac. My Cali vintage needs sorting as well will try the Hinckley dealer. Unfortunately Piaggio in their wisdom seemed to expel the small knowledgable dealers in favour of supermarkets regards Ratt Rog

I forgot to mention the slow speed filtering was one of my main reasons for BSD and this is sooo much better.

Guzzidiag will run on a Mac, not done it myself.

Setting the TPS is always a good play.
But it is essential after synchronising the chokes as there is only a tps on the right choke and the cable operates the left choke.

When you adjust the cheese head screw (between the cylinder head and the left choke body) to synch the chokes it pushes the operating rod away and changes the relationship of the two - setting the tps allows the ecu to see that closed on left is still closed on right.

Incidentally the fundamental relationships between two chokes closed position and the opening geometry are set by the manufacturer on a flow bench using the two throttle stops and the bell crank adjustment. If anyone changes those adjustments it is apparently very hard to set the two chokes to work together again so recommended to only use the cheese head adjuster :slight_smile:

Thanks again perhaps I will collate a list of messages reference this subject this would be really helpful to someone on the learning curve. Often thought a good idea for the club.
At the other end of the scale I know quite a bit about the magneto on a Falcone at first knew nothing a few pages of my drivel might help another recent owner for example
Regards Ratt

I would recommend looking on Griso Ghetto under member tech archive for the pictorial version of how to sync and reset.

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