Electronic ignition

Hi all

I have recently acquired a Le Mans 2 850 fitted with silent hektik ignition. It seems the rev limiter is acting oddly, sometimes cutting in at 7.5k, and sometimes at 8k, but when it does, the motor literally quits until 500rpm has dropped off, then cuts back in, instead of simply holding the revs at the set 8k value?
More seriously, I now have a constant ‘plug fouling’ issue whereby I clean the plugs and she runs ok for 2 miles before ‘fouling’ again. I suspect the ignition unit is at fault.
Having read several non complimentary comment about this kit on the web, I want to fit a new ignition kit that is well recommended- all suggestions welcome?

Pete

I have a couple of big block Guzzi’s, an old 78 Spada and an 88 Cali 3. Both have electronic ignitions housed in the distributor and retain the original bob weight advance retard unit.
The Spada has Newtronic system. Nice and cheap, works just fine for me. I originally fitted a Pirhana that failed after many years, Newtronic is the same unit made by a different manufacturer.
https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?f=d&q=ELA14101.

The Cali 3 has a Dyna 3 unit. The original unit failed shortly after I bought the bike, replaced with a secondhand unit and works great now.

As an alternative, Vape in the Czech republic make a complete alternator ignition unit. Not cheap and expect to get charged VAT and import duties on top of the £550 cost. I have no knowledge of the system and it doesn’t come up in on line conversations. I only know about it because I bought one of their systems for my Stornello, but haven’t fitted it yet.
https://www.vape.eu/en/moto-guzzi-le-mans-12v-180w

I also have a Dynatek Dyna 3 ignition on my 850T. It works really well. The bike starts easily and runs cleanly right through the rev range ( although I would never take it up to 8k ).

On my Le Mans 2 it had a Lucas Rita electronic ignition fitted, the bike had been off the road for 12 years but to be on the safe side I managed to get a new modified internals for it from Rex,s Speed shop, fits in the original case and appears to be working fine.

More seriously, I now have a constant ‘plug fouling’ issue whereby I clean the plugs and she runs ok for 2 miles before ‘fouling’ again. I suspect the ignition unit is at fault.

More commonly, too rich a mixture, or oil contamination?

Wet and Dry Fouling

Appearance & Symptoms: Dry fouling (top) appears as sooty, black build-up. Wet fouling (bottom) has a wet, sometimes oily appearance. Both conditions can create poor starting and misfiring.

Possible Causes: Depending on whether the spark plug is coated in oil or fuel, wet fouling can be symptomatic of a compromised head gasket, poor control from your pistons’ oil control ring, valvetrain problems, or an extremely rich condition. Dry fouling, or carbon fouling, is often caused by an overly rich condition, and the problem may lie with your air cleaner (clogged) or carburetor. Other possible causes could be low compression, vacuum leak, overly retarded timing, or improper spark plug heat range.

Source: Reading 101: How to Read Your Spark Plugs

:question: