Engine Oil T4

Hi,
I have been using Fuch’s Titan racing 10w50 (fully synth) but it is a bike oil (and my baby has a separate clutch) and is really slick modern stuff to be putting in an engine which (correct if I am wrong) dates from the at least the 70s if not before when such stuff was not available. So…what do you guys and girls use and or recommend?

thanks

OD

I used to use Mobil 1 0W-50 full synthetic but it’s disappeared now. People told me I would get oil leaking out everywhere with modern synthetic but I had no problems. Expensive maybe, but not relative to fuel.
Now using Morris V-Twin, which comes as mineral or fully synthetic.
The other important thing I’ve heard is to make sure the ZDDP additive level is high, to guard against cam follower wear.

Hello,
Done a massive amount of research into oils and this reduction of ZDDP Zinc Phosphorous. Generally for flat tappet engines Zinc/ Phosphorous should be in the region of 1000-1300 parts per million. Find the Data sheets on the oil some manufactures do not state ZDDP. However new synthetic oils are so good they do not rely on this type of protection. Don’t believe the stories about synthetic oils being thinner-they are not. They are just better oils if they come from brand manufactures. However cost does come into it. Do you really need ultimate protection or just a good well blended mineral oil? Mineral oils from well known manufactures will do the trick Valvoline 20w-50 R1 is a great mineral with good spec. Morris 20w50 V twin is fine as well. However things to look for in an oil particularly in air cooled engines that can go from cool to stinking hot is VI viscosity index. Look for an oil with a VI over 150 difficult to get in a mineral. Also look for a high flash point to avoid evaporation again mineral cannot compete. For summer use 20w50 is fine. However for all round use a 15w-50 or 10w50 gives better cold start protection. However wide band oils require more additives to allow this oil to work and it is these that get used up so a 10w60 oil becomes 20w50 after a short time. The finest oils are those that are Ester based, Motul does an expensive range of these. Guzzi is being lazy in stipulating 10w60 oils for across their range. By the way a car 10W60 will do the same job and is cheaper and is just as good! Mobil 1 10W60 motosport is 37£ for 5 litres on Ebay. Your engine does not require 10W60! I have settled on Elf Oil providing great spec v price. I can use Elf 10W50 synthetic from my Falcone to 1100 Breva, Cali, 850T,V50 with confidence.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/07k/Moto-Tech-10w50-Synthetic-Technology-Motorcycle-Engine/B009R00NSI/ref=pd_day0_263_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HCMX8DA99EZS5DCHFNM8
or slightly cheaper 15W50
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/07k/Elf-Moto-Road-15w50-Motorcycle-Engine-Litre/B01G6UMYNI/ref=pd_day0_263_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MRPR6BYC65TJKKYNE4BZ

Last thing if you go for a 20W50 and you are riding in winter cold weather be very gentle with the throttle until the engine is truely warm. If the engine is sluggish to turn over try a thinner oil. When I rode in the winter I did use 10W40 for my commuting trip of 15miles.
Hope this is helpful

+1 for synthetic oil,
Well put francjul, (just ordered the oil via your link)
Cheers Phil :smiley:

Excellent blurb!