Error Code 54

My Norge 8v failed to start today despite being fine when I last used it a few weeks ago. I interrogated the ECU and it shows error code 54 which the factory manual describes as “signal panel error” which I assume to mean instrument panel. The battery is fully charged and the engine turns over without firing. I disconnected the battery to power down the ECU but the problem remains. Has anyone else had this code or know of a possible solution? Merry Christmas!

possible RPM sensor problem?

or have a look here too

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/error-codes-for-5am-ecus.7966/

may not be RPM sensor…

Damp in instrument panel? I’m getting deja vu someone else had one go down after being out in heavy rain

Thanks to both of you. My money is on the RPM sensor which triggers the ECU to fire a spark at the right time. However, the sensor is £166 so it would be nice to know before taking a punt on it and trying to fix it myself. By the way the same sensor for my Triumph was £20 so I even carry a spare on long tours. Ironically the bike was on its last day of warranty when it failed. I rang the dealer the next day and they refused to consider it as a warranty issue as they would not see the bike until after the warranty is over. Due to Xmas they will not be collecting it until the New Year. I feel a bit aggrieved by this but will not name and shame the dealer just in case they follow the forum and I don’t want to cheese them off before they have fixed the bike! There are so few dealers that I don 't really have much of a choice.

Some options here: http://guzziriders.org/rpm-and-tdc-sensor_topic455.html

I’m not sure how you get to a cam sensor fault when the code says there’s a problem with the dash.
Does the dash do everything else it should do?
However, the Alfa/Fiat/Lancia solution works as I fitted one to my bike

The error code appears to be dependent on the manual you read, this url explains
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/ecu-54-error-code.10429/

Aha - that explains things :smiley:

Thanks for your contributions. Its easy to go down a rabbit hole re. error codes. All engines need air, fuel and a spark to start. The first two are present so the fault probably lies with the third. As its a no start rather than a misfire it must be a core ignition issue affecting both cylinders, not just a dodgy coil or plug. That points to the crank position sensor (aka ignition trigger) or worst case total ecu failure. My bank manager is prepared to consider the former, but not the latter! Watch this space.

I have ordered the Fiat equivalent part SEN 813 from Amazon for £40 including postage and will give it a go. If it doesn’t work after that then I’ll let the dealer fix it.

Thanks Mackers for the tip!

When you fit it JT57 double check the air gap. There appears to be some variation in the MG data but I set mine too the more common 0.6/0.7mm but the old one was at about 0.9mm

Tris - isn’t the air gap set by a spacer underneath the sensor flange? I’ve not yet taken the old one off yet as its deep inside the Norge fairing.

Looks like you have a choice of seven different spacer sizes.

It is, but as Brian says there can be various thicknesses (and multiples, I’ve got 2) to account for MGs difficulty in putting the mounting face the exact distance needed from the timing wheel

I made sure that one of the teeth was at the top and measured from the face to the tooth with the pointy bit of a digital vernier

It may well be right, but while you’re in there its worth checking

Tris

PS Don’t loose track of the O ring or it will leak and a thin smear of gasket goo on the surfaces that need it seems to be accepted good practice

Success. The problem was indeed the engine position sensor. It would have only taken 20 minutes to replace had I not had to remove the left side fairing panel which probably added about two hours to the job. With a long hex key I did not find it necessary to remove the exhaust header to reach the sensor. I reused the existing spacer and o ring. The electrical connector was traced to the front right side of the airbox and I had to unclip an airbox breather pipe in order to reach it. I rerouted it in a much more accessible place in case it happens again. My special fuel pipe pliers bought from Amazon removed the fuel pipe from the fuel pump elbow in a jiffy, a tip I got from the forum . Thanks to all for your advice and tips!

RESULT - happy riding :sunglasses: :sunglasses: