EV gear problems

I have a 2004 EV with a serious gearbox problem. When cold very nice but after a few changes it tends to jump out of gear going up the box. Sometimes into a neutral, sometimes back to the original gear. Sometimes even jumps out of top. At times it isn’t too bad, at others it is every gear change. I now often hold the lever down until I let out the clutch and accelerate. Could it be a broken return spring? Here’s hoping for enlightenment, George.

If it was a broken return spring you would be stuck in just one gear- maybe 3rd or 4th. Maybe what you are describing is more like clutch slip?

Have you tried adjusting the selector pawl using the screw and locknut on the back of the 'box? While you’re down there, have a gander at the detente spring and plunger which is located just behind the starter motor just to make sure it’s doing it’s job.

Doesn’t sound like the usual broken return spring problem or it wouldn’t work properly when cold. If you adjust the selector pawl on the end of the gearbox do it very carefully, turn it one flat at a time (One sixth of a turn) and no more than 3 moves either way.Detent spring is a possibility. Has this just started happening or has it always been like it?Where abouts are you based, anyone local could take a look at it for you?

As Don says approach selector pawl with caution. Also agree with getting a fellow owner to take a look,Has anything else changed recently on the bike? Service, laid up for a period of time, bits fitted or removed?I’d be tempted to start with the simplest and most basic things (which you may already have addressed);Clutch adjustment & cable routing,Linkage slop/adjustment,Quantity, quality and age of gearbox oil,Best of luckSteve
guzzibrat2012-08-22 10:55:35

And pedal bushing.

As previously mentioned, the pedal linkage and bushing can have this effect, whereby you think you have engaged a gear but due to slop the gear ends up not being fully engaged. Suggest you put the bike on the main stand and turn the back wheel while engaging gears, you may find that a large pedal movement results in only a small movement at the selector arm, time for a new bush/clevis pin/rose joint.Cheers, Gerry.

Thanks everyone, I’ll try the pedal linkage etc. first and then the selector pawl. I’ll take it all apart over the winter and renew the clutch plates as well. The bike sat out for quite a while before I got it so needs a bit if TLC. I’m in Co. Down so not too many Guzzis about. GeorgePerfection is the enemy of exellence.

George2012-08-22 22:49:54

George,In addition to removing any slop in the linkages and replacing the original ‘toffee’ pedal bushing with an oilite bronze one, you can also play around with the rod position on the bellcrank. If you relocate it to the other hole it can reduce the pedal throw and sharpen up the changes. You might have to adjust the rod length at the same time to stop the pedal fouling on the footboard, but the difference in changing gear can be marked.

Does sound more like not being pushed far enough so it engages fully?

“going up the box” … “I now often hold the lever down until I let out the clutch”

From which I infer pedal has a rear heel lever part?

Only ever had one of those on a small Honda, could never change up using just that. Thinking about it might have been same problem, pedal running out of travel, 'cause like you had to hold it up (the front) until clutch engaged.

Mike H2012-08-23 13:00:14

Checked & greased the linkages then moved the link on the bell lever and tightened (a little) the splined lever. Now not perfect but the best yet by a long way. Many thanks everyone. George.

Its a Guzzi, what did you expect. It.s probably better now than when it left the factory.


If you change the pedal bushing it will also improve things. Ditto for the rose joint ends.How’s your clutch adjustment? A well adjusted clutch can also make a marked difference to gear changes.