FAC fork dampers how much ATF? - Spada

Technical Big Block Tonti and Loop Frame models
1

Finally got the Spada’s fork back together after fubaring the left slider. ( and thank you toex-somokingbiker for his help in sourcing a new slider. Ray is the man to go to for getting bits blasted by the way) Bike got through its MOT OK

But oh dear the front fork are very stiff hardly any give in them. I have FAC dampers in them and I put 90ml of ATF in as per the manual. When I drained the forks I am sure there was a lot less that 90ml in each one.

Does any of you fine folks know how much liquid should be used with FAC dampers? I am think 90ml maybe a bit to much.

2

How much air have you in them.I found mine stiff for aboit 3,000 miles. Had to fit a steering damper. Then I t boned a Cavalier and replaced them with Marzzochi 38’s.

3

No pressure at all. Didnt run them with any air before. Did try them with a few psi but didnt like the feel too much. So ran them at 0 psi

4

Yes that is what I did. Didn’t notice any difference.You at the agm this we?

5

Hi Gwen. I have just refurbed the Spada forks with FAC’s and progressive springs. They were a bit stiff to begin with but seem to be better as the settle in. I put the recommended amount of oil in. The oil does not effect the damping it just to give some lub at the bottom of the springs.

6

Hi Phil

the FACs I have in were put in yonks ago as were the progressive springs. The front end seems much much harder than before. THe only thing I could think of as a reason was too much fluid thuse reducing the volume of air thereby making the pressure higher when the fork as compressed.

Guess Ill be taking the forks to bits again to get to the bottom of this.

7

check nothings bent… my v50 went hard and one of the stantions was slight bent, not that i can recall hitting anything…with one side loose eveything moved easily

8

Hard forks sorted (well almost). After checking the fork out agains I couldnt be botherted to fit the fokbrace. Guess what forks action is a lot better. It is still hard but not rack hard like before. Looks like the fork brace was causing a problem with the forks. Pretty sure I had it all lined up and set up correctly. So forkbrace now in the bits n bobs box.

9

You can get that when the fork brace makes the forks bind

Is the brace adjustable

10

Hello FolksFirst time poster.I am putting on the road a W plate Le Mans II that has spent a long time asleep (Tax disc is 1986). I have mostly sorted out mechanicals/electrics/brakes and am now working on the suspension. I am currently replacing the stanchions as they were rusted in the area in which the seal passes over. I have two questions (the fork is one with air valves in the top caps). This bike has evidence of past poor mechanicing (one of the fork leg pinch bolts is a 6mm coach bolt!) and I appear to have drained out fork oil out as opposed to 90 ml of ATF in each leg. Can anyone confirm this is what should be in there?The second question concerns the fork seals. I currently have two in each leg but the chaps at Guzzibits have supplied me with the single improved ones. My question is how far down the lower leg to I fit the single seal? ThanksNeil

11

As already mentioned the oil has no damping function at all. It’s just there to lubricate the sliding action of the fork legs.

Unlike the OEM dampers the FAC damper bodies are mounted at the top of the fork legs so you need 150 ml of oil in each leg to get the oil at the correct level. The OEM dampers are mounted at the bottom and occupy some of the space so only 90 ml of oil is needed to reach the same level.

12

Thanks for the reply. Can I just squirt the fluid down the hole in the top cap which is made when the air valve assembly is unscrewed?Neil

13

you have to unscrew the whole damper assembly from the top tube and then poor the atf carefully downremember to support the bike under the engine as the dampers hold the springs in and it will drop suddenly when the tension is released!
guzzi-v352014-02-25 10:23:43

14

I tend to use a syringe thro the top 'ole You can then measure the amount in BUT it does take time and an awful lot of patience

15

In the end it’s simpler to just unscrew the top nuts and pour the oil down alongside the damper.

16

And obviously you mpour from a measered aqmount in a jug so you know you get the right amount in.

17

That is how I do it the syringe does have ameasure as to try and fill thro the little 'oles is very dodgy.

I boght a few of these syringes different sizes as I use a big one for reverse bleeding /filling brakes. makes it easy, a very small one I use to get lube into some lillte difficult to get at places.

18

I concur, remove each top cap and pour in a measured amount. NB: do not remove both caps at once or bike may fall on its nose. Unless you’ve chocked up the sump.

19

Hi. Ive also just fitted fac dampers to my Spada 3. Thanks for info on ATF .I only put in 70mil cos that’s what the book says. Forks much improved, can’t get them to bottom out on our bumpy track and that’s with no added air. Forks sound a bit graunchy when I bounce them up and down poss because of not enough atf lube. I was worried that it was because the fac rods are slimmer than the originals so the spacerbetween the two springs and the nylon sleeves were too sloppy? Cheers guys be lucky with your upcoming MOTs !!

20

Still on this subject. I am putting the fork back together now. Can anyone tell me the correct torque values for the yoke to stanchion pinch bolts and for the handle bars to stanchions? I have pdfs of an old haynes manual and what appears to be factory manual for T3 + a supplement for LMII but torque settings don’t seem to feature very often.Regards