Flasher units help

The flasher unit on the T3 has given packed in working. So i want a replacement. It is a 2 terminal type with L and X marked on it.But here is the problem one side indicators run on 21w bulbs BUT the other side run on 10 w bulbs as the indicators on that side will only take stubby bulbs and the maximum wattage you can get is 10w. So a standard 2x21 watt flasher unit will not work on the 10w side. My question is can i use a electronic 3 or 4 terminal flasher unit as i am lead to believe these will automaticly cope with the different wattages. Any help appreciated as i’m on my hols at the TT.ralph2013-05-24 21:21:25

I have an electronic ic controlled one on the t5 works really well and sorted the wonky flasher rate out

It’s a 2 pin one

I got one from Hein Gerike, its 2 pin and will self correct for wattage and leds etc. sorry but the box is long gone.I can tell you it was about £12, twice the price of the little cheap silver pot ones.

the only negative point is that flash rate does not change if a bulb goes , so you have to keep a regular eye on the bulbs

You could always replace the 21 W bulbs with 10 W.There is actually very little difference in brightness.

If you go for an electronic flasher make sure you get one which can carry enough current for the filament bulbs. Some are intended for LED bulbs only.

Two 25w bulbs will draw 4 amps. If the same flasher unit is used for hazard lights then all 4 bulbs are on together so the current draw will be higher still.

Addition to above details .I’m on the Isle of Man for the TT,the flasher unit that has gone is unidentifiable (no markings ) I have tried a Lucas one which is suitable for flashing 2x21w +5w it works OK on one the side with the 2x21watt bulbs BUT not with side with the 2x 10 watt bulbs ( it does not flash.) So what i want to know is can i use a electronic flasher unit from a vehical which has 3 or 4 connections instead.

If i replaced the 21w bulbs with 10w i will still have still have the same problem See my latest message.

The electonic flasher unit i was thinking of using would be from a car suitable for up to 90+watts .Just thought i would ask before i knacker up the one for the hazards i have fitted.ralph2013-05-25 10:15:03

I fitted the highest wattage one that Halfords had for sale. The smaller one packed up after a few flashes . No trouble since.
All the best,

In places like Halfords, you can get two types of flasher with different power ratings, one type being for 2x10w, the other 2x21w. Decent bike shops should also have them.Yes you can also get the electronic type, but many of those will also want to flash at different rates with differing loads. Get the type for LED flashers and you would be OK.But they are normally 3 terminal type, so you would have to alter the socket that the flasher sits in, I think the extra terminal is an earth. I think I did this on the Spada some time back and seem to remember it was more than adding an earth, the other two terminals had to be swapped or something.
Brian UK2013-05-25 10:26:58

I am away from home at present but I think the one I bought was sold as suitable for a car which has four-way flashers for emergency use. It is a square shape rather than cylindrical but the rubber sleeve on my 850-T3 accommodates it.
All the best,

I’ve just tried a 3 terminal electronic one, it will flash both sides but the 2x10w side is too fast and there is slight whisle coming from either the flasher unit or the buzzer i have fitted.
This flasher unit shows a rating of 12v 42-48w-96w so i assume it’s only suitable for 2x21w upwards anything lower wattage it will not work properly as i have already found out on the 2x10watt bulb side of my indicators. So what i need is a unit that with a rating of 20w upwards i’ve seen one on ebay a 2 pin electronic rated to 180 watt so have ordered one .Hope this works ok. ralph2013-05-25 12:03:07

It is L and +, not L and X, just for your information.

The + is the feed, and L is the load.

Mine has all 21 watt lamps, but I just used a 2 pin jobby intended to be fitted to BL mini, cost about a fiver from Bromsgrove Motor Factors

Yes that is the warning that a lamp is not working, it is assuming the 2 x 10W is one 21W bulb. I.e. you got a lamp out (it thinks)

Bromsgrove motor factors have been great for odd bits when I have needed them :slight_smile:

5 mins from me

Put a 30 ohm (ish will do) resistor in parallel with one of the 10 watt bulbs, or a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with each 10 watt bulb, it’ll need to be about 20 watts, and you should be fine as the flasher unit will think the current draw is the same, (or if it is easier, stick a 21 watt bulb in parallel with with the 10 watt bulb circuit, and hide it).

OK I’ll ask the silly question ~ why is one side normal (?) 21W and 'tother stubby 10W

[QUOTE=Mike H]

OK I’ll ask the silly question ~ why is one side normal (?) 21W and 'tother stubby 10W[/QUOTE]

Good but not that silly a question ,it’s because the indicator lights on that side are on a sidecar and the lamps and plastic lens were not designed to take bulbs any longer than the stubby ones.Although i could have further modifed the light lens holders to take longer bulbs but my flasher unit i was using was working ok and i did’ent think i would have the flasher unit go belly up on my holiday and have trouble finding another .
Also thanks for your previous post ,now i have learnt some useful info.ralph2013-05-25 21:33:33

Reference your first posting ,yes i have the different designations for the terminals Uk,euro,jap it can make things a bit cofusing can’t it!
Reference the above i did think about fitting another bulb and hiding it while out on a run this afternoon. I did’ent think about using a resistor. Thanks for that.