Thanks for the advice. I have the cable, the apps (guzzidiag etc) and the laptop, but I have looked at the website and the Norge 2v map for my bike is too much for me at the moment - $80 is a lot more than it used to be.
I would be very interested in user experience of the Norge 2v map from GRiSO thought. Might help me decide whether the next planned upgrade is changing the mapping or HyperPro fork springs & new for oil.
You will also require TunerPro [http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm] if you haven’t got it. The guzzidiag page has all the links.
Using the GuzziDiag reader you can create a backup copy of you file then you can open it in TunerPro and turn off the Lambda and then save with a diferent name (so you stil have an original backup).
“restore” you new file using the GuzziDiag writer, after that using GuzziDiag reset the learning parameters.
I usually do a rest on the TPS too.
Hope this is useful
GuzziDiag is very easy to use, and there are many guides on-line.
If you can navigate the internet, download stuff, put photos on forums etc, then you can Re-Map your Guzzi. 
It’s no more than connecting a cable to the Plug under the Seat, plugging the other end into a Laptop, and clicking on a few Buttons/Icons.
It can’t be ‘messed-up’, it’ll either load, or it won’t, you can’t ‘corrupt’ the ECU.
Free Maps are available as I said earlier.
Another thing to consider, is that these ECU ‘Foolers’ can do long-term Engine damage, due to the over-rich mixture washing the Oil film off the Bores and Pistons.
Australian Guzzi Guru Peter Roper (Motomoda on various forums) will be happy to show you photos of various Engine parts that he’s removed from Engines that have been running with these units.
One for instance, shows a Piston Ring sitting in it’s Bore, the end gap was around 4-5mm (should be just a few thou’).
My '09 Stelvio will happily sit constantly at any Revs in any Gear with no surging, hesitation, hiccups, or roughness.
I’d read about the infamous flat/rough spot at around 3000-3500rpm not long after I got mine, so I tried to get it to do it, couldn’t make it happen whatever I tried.
There’s absolutely no reason for it to run like that if the Map is ‘good’.
I would like to agree but I have tried multiple maps now as well as pre roller/post roller maps and it stil happens.
Does your bike have one or two lambda sensors or is the ECU version different (I have a Sport)?
Same ECU across the CARC Range as I understand it, 5AM(?).
Early models like mine are single Lambda, I think they switched to two with the other changes (Big Tank, Skinny Forks, etc).
Not sure about the others (Sport/Norge/Griso etc).
Have you done a Throttle Body Balance, TPS reset, etc?
Has the ‘Sacred Screw’ been touched?
Throttle Cable slack minimal?
I Rollerised mine just over 7000 miles ago, not changed to the Roller Map yet.
It runs so well I’ve been putting off changing the Map, but will soon, just to see if there’s any improvement still to be gained.
Running 0.1mm Valve/Tappet Clearance all round, since the Roller upgrade.
Also, I assume you’re aware of the Oil Level these Engines prefer, half-way between the ‘Min & Max’ marks?
Fill them to the upper mark, and they’ll dump the excess into the Airbox via the Breather Pipes.
This can ‘gum-up’ the Idle Control Valve, and the Throttle Butterflies, both of which can screw-up low-speed smoothness.