Gutsi Bits Fuel Booster

When I got my first Guzzi, a NORGE 8v, I was hugely disappointed at the lack of low down power below 4K, poor cold running, flat spots, lurching, popping and banging. I thought I might sell it straight away but I gambled on a plug-in fuel booster from Gutsi Bits and it has transformed the bike. It now has low down power, and a linear power delivery all through the range. No more sudden kick at 4K (its a tourer after all) or popping the in silencer. I know it was caused by lean running dictated by exhaust emissions, and afflicts other bike brands, but I’m still shocked that any manufacturer would sell a new bike with such a compromised state of tune. If I was not experienced and technically minded I would have sold it and in my eyes MG’s reputation would have been ruined. No doubt others out there have had a similar experience?

Is this the same as the Finebau Forge plug in that goes into the lambda sensor or something? I am thinking of same for my two valve.

Mine has a great spread of power, but is very lurchy off idle, and pops a lot on the overrun. Power comes in with a bang when you open the throttle at very low revs, makes roundabouts a bit awkward.

I agree with your point of view.

No its not the Finebau which I understand addresses the same lean running problem. You can find it on Gutsi Bits website, it plugs in-line into the air temperature sensor on the airbox, a 10 minute job. It fools the computer into thinking the air temperature is colder and hence maps a richer mixture. Simple in principle and so far so good.

Oh OK, not heard of that before. Does it just do it at lower revs? How did it affect the fuel consumption?

According to the info given it only comes into play when needed, not at higher revs. I don’t know if it impacts mpg. The computer is telling me I got 50.5mpg on a fast 80mph motorway run.

Thanks. I had a chat with Gutsibits about it on the phone earlier whilst ordering some stuff. It is £120, which I can’t afford right now, but will definitely look at it at some point.

Do a remap from beetle. Smooths the power, pulls better,stops the popping and gives better fuel consumption. Result

Sorry, what’s beetle?

Search beetle maps on this site

Beetle =

Generally the lurching is from the Lambda sensor and/or throttle cable slack, I think your bike has two which should make it better on the sampling rate (I would hope) - this can be turned off, but worth reading up on how fuel injection functions.

A lot of bad running can be down to throttle body balance and dirty air bleed screws if open. I agree that the beetle map is better, but you would need someone or yourself to install the map.


Thanks. This is all new to me and so far I haven’t even worked out how to balance the throttle bodies or where the data port is on the bike, or anything. The bike is running very well apart from the lurch.

Got to change the oils and filters before anything else, and then hopefully find time to look at this. I see there is one standard map available from beetle for the two valve Norge, but since I am intending to put a K and N air filter in I don’t know if this will affect things. Will do some more reading and see. I am trying to do more myself these days as I find it such a hassle getting the bike to and from dealers/workshops and it gets so expensive too, so will see about adjusting throttle cable play and balancing throttle bodies at some point.

I’ve never understood why so many people fit these ‘cheat’ units, when it costs far less to just re-map the ECU, and enjoy better results. :unamused:

We’re lucky as Guzzi Owners to have a free-to-download program to do it (GuzziDiag).
The Cables to connect a Laptop to the Bike are only £25-30.
Even if you had to buy a cheap used Laptop, you’d still be quids-in.

Maps are free as well, if you know where to look, or who to ask.

I look at it this way;
You have an annoying stone in your Boot, do you;
A. Put on extra Socks to lessen the pain? (the Booster Plug)
B. Remove the Stone? (the Remap)

With remapping, you also don’t risk accelerated Ring/Bore wear from over-rich fuelling.

I belive that the finbough forge fuel compensator ’ was invented and manufactured to richen the fuel mixture at slow running speed.
To defete the lumpy slow speed running caused by the European 3/4 regulations.
I have run this on a griso 1200 & a breva 1100.
With great success.
Thanks dave (940v) .


I knew about the lurch due to slack throttle cables and have adjusted mine with reasonable success, but not heard that the Lambda sensor could be involved.

Can a poorly/dying Lambda also induce surge when cruising on a light throttle?

Also if I turn the Lambda off, is any other remapping needed?

You’d have to know what to do tho. Or know somone who does. :smiley:

Plugging in a simple ‘black box’ is a piece of p!ss 5 minutes job, well longer if things need to be removed to get at the connectors. By the same token, it’s easily reversible to previous.

Basically the Lambda sensor checks the air/fuel ratio on a timed basis and the ECU adjusts the fuel accordingly. All the time you have the throttle changing you will not notice the Lambda, however if you run on a constant throttle which can be small opening you can feel the bike surging/lagging as the ECU adjusts - more modern bikes have a faster sampling rate.

Turning off the Lambda stops the surging/lagging but stops the ECU from “administering” the correct fuel/air ratio.

It’s a pain when you are in a 30 doing steady 30 with no throttle adjustment.

forgot to mention that if you turn off the Lambda you can run on a stock map or use a Beetle map, I’ve not noticed any problems.

Cheers Brian

Time for a brave pill and see what happens :astonished:

To be pedantic, the lambda sensor merely returns a small Voltage signal that can be used as an indication of the difference in oxygen content of the outside air compared to inside the exhaust, it’s the ECU computer that does the checking. :smiley: