Hello All,
I’ve been trying to work this out for some time. What is the correct position of the fork tubes with respect to the top surface of the top yoke? Does anyone have an original picture/photo of the bikes as imported? My 750T has the top surface of the top yoke 28mm down from the top of the fork stanchion. When I replaced the stanchions (£££!) I put it all back as it had been before, but I’ve wondered if that is where they should be. The forks do seem quite long on the bike. Any ideas?
Cheers, Bob
As for me, this is the primary way of setting the seat height - seriously. Mind if you push them back into top yoke, you may struggle to put both feet on the ground. 28mm is a lot, or at least enough to feel the difference. Most of my bikes are like that, as I am not the tallest in the pack…
I’d rather be worried about mudguard/alternator cover clearance at the full braking. Had events before in this area…
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No problem for seat height, except that I’m getting older . My other bike is a KTM 950 Supermoto, and that towers over the Guzzi 
I don’t see any witness marks on either the generator cover or the mudguard, despite occasional very hard braking so I have to assume there’s enough clearance for practical purposes. It would be good to see some original 750T pics if anyone has any 
Cheers, Bob
When I had a front end crash many years ago on my 850T I had Marzocchi fitted by Guzzi Overland, The top yoke did not have handlebar clamps so the pushed the forks up through the top yoke and fitted clip ons above the top yoke. It made the handling different with turn in to corners very quick. I didn’t like this change so lowered the forks down into the yokes (probably only 5m showing above the top yoke) and fitted the clip ons below the top yoke, so started the change from 850T to 750S replica.
The change in fork length (only by about 40mm) and so the angle of the front end certainly changed the steering geometry and changed the handling.
I’ve looked at images on the interweb and some project like yours and some are flush(ish) so I’m not sure what your answer is. Maybe try the bike in both conditions and see which you prefer?
Best of luck Chris
Hi Rob new boy. What your photo shows is just plain wrong. No manufacturer would produce a set up like that. In my view what you need to do is, a) establish whether or not you have the correct forks fitted, (maybe someone on this forum can help you with dimensions etc., b) if the forks are indeed the correct one then they should be installed with the top of the fork tube flush with the top of the top yolk. This will re-establish the correct ride height as per design. As mentioned by Chris this will also bring the handling back to factory expectations. I suspect you will find that this set up is perfectly adequate and meet your expectations. If you wish to change the stancion protrusion do so in 5mm steps and assess that change in handling characteristics. The reduction in seat height will be least of the changes you will observe. May I also suggest you do some homework on understanding all aspects of frame and suspension set up. It is certainly a well documented science and when understood you will be able to assess the changes you make versus the affects on handling. Hope this helps, Phil
Hi Guys, thanks for the feedback. I have been doing more research on the bike. My findings are that the internet picture search really doesn’t help. Some example pictures of the 750T online have the fork tops flush, while others have them up in the yokes by varying degrees. Like I said previously, I have only copied the setting that was made when I received the bike. Whether that was done for reasons of inside leg length or an attempt to speed up the steering I cannot say. My problem has been to find an authoritative source document or photograph showing the fork legs in their original position. I have now managed that: the OEM parts list that someone here (Chris?) handily posted links to has indicated that the forks are mounted with the top of the fork tube flush with the top surface of the top yoke. Picture included below. Whether that is factually correct or just the usual mix of copy/paste sections that a lot of Guzzi manuals are, it will do for me. I will reset them in the next few days, as far as the cables allow.
Phil, the forks are the correct ones fitted to the 750T, according to the pictures and what I can glean from the parts book and various other manuals. They are unusual in that they were only ever fitted on 3 Guzzi models: 750T, SPII, and T5 Series 3, so generally the forks have nothing in common with the other small block bikes. They are indeed quite long, and this is why I didn’t question the fitment when I bought the bike. I am fully aware of the effects of varying the fork mounting height - this is my 23rd or 24th bike, my second Guzzi (650 Lario), and my 45th year of riding. The ‘new’ in my username refers to my time on the Forum
Well done Bob! I think you are on the right track. Now you know the forks are indeed correct and there is more evidence of flush installation with the top of the hold than otherwise, I would start there. I certainly did want to teach you to suck eggs! I’m sure starting with the factory setting will give you the best starting point. Notwithstanding seat height I still believe 5mm increments of dropping the stancions will give you a good idea of the overall effects on handling. Keep us all informed of your progress. Good luck, Phil
Hi again Bob, I’m also an old timer having ridden since 1970. I have the dubious honour of never selling a Moto Guzzi and own 17 of them. (The other two being a BMW and a Hesketh). The Moto Guzzis range from two stroke and four stroke singles, two wheelers and one with three. Currently riding around northern Italy, Slovenia, Croatia and France. Looking forward to meeting up with other club members at the Quota Treffen on Saturday. Enjoy the 750. There is no better feeling than getting a Moto Guzzi singing as it it was designed to! Cheers Phil
