Heavy T3 clutch

I have been told that the clutch action on my T3 is too heavy, or at least heavier than it should be. Obviously I will try a new cable first although it’s in good condition and routed correctly. Failing that , any thoughts on my next course of action? If it’s clutch out time which is beyond me are there any known experts closer than NBS . I’m in peterborough Cambridgeshire. Even knowing what might be wrong would help when I book it in. Cheers in advance. Dougie .

If your happy riding it as it is and it all works ok then why worry ?.

Good quality cables, or one that is lubed properly can make a great deal of difference to the clutch lever action + setting the actuating arm at the G/Box end to give proper leverage onto the push rod can help .

As Chilly said above and also clean and grease the pivots of the handlebar lever and the actuating arm at the gearbox without the cable to check free movement. If the cable is nylon lined it should not need lubricating, if it has wound steel wire it will. Routing without sharp bends helps a lot too.

Hi Dougie, a lot of clutch problems are caused by the routing of the cable, it should go from the lever, through the fork clamps in front of the steering head and drop parallel to the R/H frame down tube, curving gently to run beside the R/H lower frame tube above the footrest mounts. Make sure it has not been over cable-tied anywhere, smooth curves are the secret.
Cheers, Gerry.

Thanks for feedback so far, I will check them out tomorrow . I was happy enough with the clutch until I was told otherwise at the club meeting and riding home in the rain with cold hands I realised I couldn’t let the clutch out smoothly and with the back wheel locking up on down changes I decided to do something about it.

Might be amazed what a new cable does even if you think it shouldn’t need it.

I swapped my LM clutch lever complete with mount for an aftermarket one Gutsibits stock, plus a brand new cable it made the lever action as light as was my R80, which is saying something!

I concur with what was said for cable routing, basically try to avoid any bends at all! Down right hand down tube and along.

I think the clutch on my T3 is comfortably light - hopefully I’ll get to the next Fenland meet (I said that last time as well…), and you can compare. As others have said, I think the answer is a well routed, lubricated cable: same goes for the throttle.

You wouldn’t have enjoyed the journey home John. I’ve got the cable off ,soaking some oil through it overnight . You never know your luck. No food at the fishermans arms for the May meeting, the chefs on holiday.

I have a cable oiler, you stick the cable in i=one end with rubber washers to stop leaks then fill it up with oil and screw in a piston that forces the oil down inside the outer cover of the cable. If you hang it up and let gravity help it does it very quickly.
I remember Haynes manuals used to show a Plasticine funnel to help get the oil in but that just sounds a bit too much like a Blue Peter job to me! :smiley:

I went the blue peter route with a rubber glove , tape and cable ties . This stopped some of the oil leaking out and old mcn’s underneath saved the floor. Bad news is clutch is just the same, so I’m going to live with impending carpel tunnel syndrome until I’ve saved up some more money then ring NBS. Thanks as always for the quick replies. Cheers Dougie.

Right now I know what your problem is, you are using OE cables.
Buy from Venhill, more expensive but much better quality and as they are nylon lined you do not oil them.
Venhill are in Dorking and should be in every Guzzisti’s book.
01306 885 111

Good idea, I looked on venhills website but cable lengths are not shown. I want a shorter cable than standard, I’ve fitted slightly lower tommaselli bars and wondered if lemans cables are shorter and would they fit?

Venhill will make whatever you want if you send lengths and end details. Or they sell the bits for you to make up in situ.

Generally I have found Venhill cables slightly longer to give better runs (length not set by accountants) but as rantom_rambler says they will make to your specification.

Just checked out the price for a custom Venhill Clutch cable
£42 in VAT but excluding postage. The lass on the end of the phone didn’t seem to want my order.
£24.00 +VAT +Post from Corsa Italiana sounded better.

Oo-er!

Have recently bought a pair of throttle cable kits from Venhill, includes fittings for about every bike made but are perfect for the Convert, price was reasonably competitive. If you are looking for clutch cable suggest made up is cheaper than kit as you do not get the extraneous fittings with it.

I’m confused. I wanted a shorter cable than standard as I’ve put on lower bars so I thought a lemans one might do . But don’t know a definite length to order from what sounds like a sniffy voice on the venhills phone. Think I’m going to speak to Guy at gutsibits , he knows his stock.

I’ve re routed the cable and the action is a fair bit lighter, although the cable now touches the header pipe. Which doesn’t matter as the bike won’t start. I think ,in oiling the cable oil has got into the switch. I’ve been told to bypass it by joining two wires together, but I can’t find them. Are they in the rubber housing of the switch or on the handlebar somewhere? This is where I step away from the bike and wait for my brain to unscramble.

you can bypass the ignition switch by connecting the switched live and the battery live

  • might be possible to do near the battery