Does anyone have a procedure to follow to get the air filter element (or even the air filter lid!) out of a 750T?
I tried all sorts of shenanigans yesterday trying to get the old filter out to replace it with a new one, and I couldn’t even get the blooming lid off. On unclipping, the lid catches on the frame and if i lift both the lid and the element up, I can only move it forward about a centimetre before it stops moving completely.
I can very much see why people dispense with the air box completely and go with pod/K&N air filters, but there are the oils breather pipes to deal with….
As a newbie, I’d be very glad of anyone who could describe what I’m doing wrong!
Cheers, Bob
Have you taken the tank off?
From memory (on my V50 Monza) it’s only possible with the tank out of the way, and still not easy.
Oh yes. See my other post today. I was in the middle of replacing the oil pressure switch, and thought that it was a good opportunity to change the filter while I was in there. I had taken the seat, both side panels, and the tank off in preparation. For whatever reason the lid of the air box wouldn’t come out at all, and even when I lifted the filter element out at the same time, it wouldn’t come forwards/outwards whatever I did.
I’m wondering if there is a knack, or trick to it?
Cheers, Bob
Well, this is quite famous job in small block dept. Personally, I would undo lower frame rails FRONT, one bolt each side completely, one bolt each side “just loose”. Then top mountings on the gearbox - long bolt, and two short ones just behind . Then top bolts off both shock absorbers, and with no need to interfere with electrics, you lift all the top part of the chassis, gaining some space over the airbox. Really, I do it this way, I am so fed up with this job. V65 and bigger ones have different airbox vs. V35-50, btw. The other thing is, I am not 100% sure BUT! I heard oil pressure sensor holds camshaft rear half-bearings in place, so any crankshaft movement with that sensor off can be lethal to the engine…
The air filter saga has been ongoing for many years and I have yet to hear of a satisfactory way of doing what should be a regular and easy job. Its as if Guzzi started with the air box and then assembled the bike around it. I am fortunate in that all my V50s came with pod filters and the airbox came along with whatever bits and pieces the previous owner had for the bikes. Its also the case that after 40 years the airbox will have become a bit fragile after previous owners vented their frustration on said item.
CHRIS
Indeed. I am >this< close to bashing the air box out and adding pod filters. A shame I know, but it’s a near impossible job for an otherwise well designed bike. I have some other issues to fix first however.
Cheers, ~Bob
And my two penneth, with a V50II is to mark all the pieces up so they go back together as they came apart… you will need the battery out and then add a 5mm or 6mm nut on the front end, so it all stays together when you wiggle the whole (damn!) thing back into it’s designated position. Appreciate your 750 may be different, so not sure if/how much this may help.
The first time I replaced the filter on my Strada 750 after some hassle, I cut the top of the filter box in half lengthways, and it’s now held together by some cross wires.
Comes apart easily now 
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Hello everyone I am new to the forum. I have a Nevada750 that has been standing for years,with very low mileage. The airbox design had me stumpted for many hours, I removed the tank first, then the battery, in front of the airbox remove the plastic emmisions catch tank that sits between the frame rails. Back to the battery location remove the electrical modual attached to the frame, to create maximum space. Go to front of airbox underneath is a small L shaped bracket ,remove it. Remove the coil packs and lift the out of the way, loosen or remove zip ties hollding wiring harness ,and pull out of the way. The airbox has a join and is in 2 sections ,split these if possible. It is still a struggle but I managed to remove the whole assembly, by wiggling it out to the left in the battery location area, without damage.
I would like to fit pod filters, as I do not intend to repeat this in future. Will I have to up jet the carbs, running standard exhaust pipes. Carbs are PH BH 30 BD. just be cleaned and overhauled. Please can anyone advise . Thank you all.
The common belief is yes, re-jetting is a must in such case, as bikes develop a “hole” in the power delivery at certain revs. Can’t remember was is around 3krpm or so. Being you, I’d take a deep look into “what I could leave untouched” and next time your job will be easier. Personally I wouldn’t go that path; To make it quick and simple, I dismantle few bolts to open those frame scissors, you know, lower rails stay on the floor with all the drivetrain, caught at the front by only ONE set of short bolts, while at the rear, one(top) set of gearbox bolts and long spindle comes off, allowing you to lift the whole frame from over the engine. You need just couple of inches of space, so you don’t really mess with the loom and cables. Oh, I forgot - top shock mountings at the rear will help too:)
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