How long to change a Cali Clutch

Hi, my friend has a 96 Cali 1100i and the clutch is slipping.
How long would it take me to change the clutch for him. I have a good workshop and am very competent mechanically but have not done this job on a Guzzi before.
Are there any special tools required and what price are the replacement clutch parts ( assuming that it is not a leaking crank seal causing the slippage )

Thanks Daz

recently had the clutch done on my Le Mans and found Steine Dinse was best price for bits, including shipping from Germany…

longest part of the job is taking everything off to get to the clutch…
I’ve only changed a clutch on a ‘loopframe’ but i’m sure someone will be along to go into detail about 'crabbing the frame’on a tonti…

I have done a spine frame but not a tonti. I would guestimate at a days work. The front engine bolt could be a problem so have a go at that before doing the job. I done the fork seals on a 750 Breva the other day, took less than an hour to do the seals but 4 hours to remove the seized mudguard bolts.

If the clutch hub on the front of the gearbox is worn you may need a pegged socket to remove the nut securing it. I used a flat bar bolted to an old clutch plate to lock the hub in place.

crabbing the frame:

I also had good price on clutch kit and centring tool (if the clutch hub is to be replaced the old one can be used for alignment) from stein dinse
HaydnR2013-05-18 14:45:43

Thanks for the link Haydn, that all seems to make sense.

we will see if the job comes my way, but I like to be prepared.


A Cali is at least 8 hrs even crabbing the frame. IF you do it the most important thing is to make sure the sump is supported at EXACTLY the correct height SO when you put it all back together everything slots into place.

The other places to be aware of is:-

Front engine bolt

Rear engine bolt

Refitting the clutch and aligning it I usually take off the gearbox splined and use that DO NOT put any grease anywhere near the splines even tho’ some manuals suggest it…Best trick is to get one of those builders big pencils and rub the graphite on the splines

Then refit the gearbox sprocket I have a spare nut and tang just in case I rubbish the one on the bike.

Use a long 13mm ring/open spanner to “lock” the flywheel using one of the casing studs

Make sure you set up the engine at TDC R/H side THEN check the marks in the timing hole BEFORE you undo anything.

There should be a mark on the engine casing a small V that aligns with a mark on the flywheel if not I ALWAYS Mark the flywheel-casing with tippex

When you DO put the gearbox back to the engine to align the clutch centre make sure you do it all horizontally and what I do is align by eye then offer it up if needed a long thin flat blade screwdriver can be used to tickle the cog into line then a very VERY gentle tapping with rubber mallett the slight shluck sound as it all mates always makes me smile.

While it is apart, it is a good time to clean the swing arm
check the swing arm bearings and clean and check rear suspension. I often clean the engine and gearbox casings and will given time repaint with silver Hammerite smooth

As it is my own bike I often take a whole weekend to do this sort of job checking and refurbing all parts I get to.

However by crabbing and knowing what I can take off in big bits, like all the luggage as one the rear mudguard before getting the wheel out then the other ancilliary bits I have done this job , on my own in under 8 hrs, make nO mistake this is the biggest job you have to do on a Guzzi