Doing a bit of work on the S3 and while the frame & engine are separated i’ve been thinking about converting to hydraulic clutch, only because i’ve not ridden the bike for 20+ years and remember the clutch as being rather heavy. Has anyone done this and was it worth the effort?
I tried it and found that it wasn’t worth the bother, trouble with it releasing fully after changing gear, extra spring between clutch arm and boss on gearbox cured it but negated the light action, it never seemed to bite in the same place when pulling away, reverted back to a cable and never looked back
In my experience the key to a lighter clutch is cable oiling and routing. Avoid tight bends and get a cable oiler, one of the types that force oil between the inner and outer cable under pressure. And of course keep the clutch correctly adjusted.
Thanks for the replies i think i’ll stick with cable. Another reason for heavy clutch can be that when the nipple is solderd on the solder has been allowed to run beyond the nipple and into the cable, especially if it’s the lever end.
Suffered with “heavy clutch” for a very long time, then finally put on a new cable, plus a different design clutch lever, got new from Gutsibits, I was amazed was like getting power assisted clutch, one of those “wish I’d done this years ago”. 
Chris is right about cable routing minimum bends and as shallow as possible, and never ever use cable ties to tie it to the frame etc. to make it look more tidy. Just let it be untidy. 
Mike can you tell me more about the alternative clutch lever? I’ve no doubt i’ll be placing several orders with Gutsibits over the next few months.
I think it was this, 3rd one down CLA32510
https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?q=clutch%20lever&f=d&Model=0&search=SEARCH&spPage=3
Blurb says “Can be used on 850/1000, V35, V50 and V65 models to achieve a lighter clutch with a wider range of engagement and improved adjustment”
You might have to fettle the cable length tho
Thanks, I’ll give them a call tomorrow.