Ignition switch.

Technical Big Block Tonti and Loop Frame models
1

Hi all, my ignition switch seems to have gone bad and is very hit and miss.

Does anyone have one they would sell me?

V1000 Convert. (Tonti framed bike) I’m after an original bullet connector one if you have one in your stash you would like rid of.Thumbs Up

Cheers John.

2

Hi John

Options in case you can’t a Switch with the bullet Connectors!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358203428849

Regards, Nik

3

The bullet connectors themselves could be dodgy, guess how I know … :slightly_smiling_face:

This was on the LM, they were working, but in a bit of a sorry state, and loose!

4

You can take the switch apart by very carefully bending the tangs outward at the base. Things to look for:

  • corrosion or dirt on the all of the copper contacts
  • wear on the copper in the base. If you’ve got a dip here then it’s bye-bye time
  • loose bullet connector sockets. These can be fixed by pushing a thin screwdriver behind them to tighten up the gap
  • corrosion in the bullet connector sockets and on the bullets themselves.

As you are contemplating buying a new switch, you don’t have much to lose by stripping the existing one.

5

Hi, I suddenly had a brain wave! I am restoring a T3 California (Slowly!) so I disconnected the switch from its loom. Guess what? It is a spade terminal one! I modified my loom and fitted it, after a good clean and it felt much more positive in its action. Turned the ignition on and no difference in the result. The problem was, at first, my charge light was not working, then the oil light too. Then the lights refused to work! The oil light started to come on when I wiggled the key, Hence the dodgy switch theory. All was well before, and I can’t think of anything I have touched that might have caused these failures. Investigations continuing when I find time. Thanks for the replies.

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