These are some of the jobs I tend to do this time of year.
Check the engine bolts are not seized. To take them out I tend to chock up the sump then use an old bolt same diameter to gently drift out the existing one, THAT way you are assured it all goes back easy. You will only once not do this and if the frame goes out by a fraction of a mm it will be a git to get back and you risk damaging the threads. I also use a Domed nut to stop the threads getting gunged up.
Check the brake pads and the pistons are not seized in the calipers, pop out the pins, clean and copper grease them and I pop the pads out and clean the calipers it ensures the pads move easily gets rid of the brake dust.
Check the frame over and apply paint to cover any rust spots, a re vamp can be done if needed whan it gets a bit warmer
Check the centre stand and the alloy bushes are ok, it can get real gunged up under there.
Give the rear shocks a clean and spray a rust inhibiter on them
Visual check of oils
Visual check of all alloy bits wipe and apply some sort of wax/oil
Oil all the cables I use 3:1 cos it WORKS
Check cables for free play and any potential breaks
Visual check of electrical connectors and the fuses I give the ceramic ones on the V1000 a twirl cleans any potential corrosion, on the spade ones in the V11 I pop them out and in and check for corrosion
I am sure many will add to this lil list as well
I tend to wait untill the weather is warmer and dryer to do brake fluid as it is very hydroscopic and doing it right now is kinda, in my mind, asking for premature failure, So I tend to do that job the first dry sunny weekend March/April time. But if it needs doing due to some failure better to do it than not
What size bolt should i get hold of to drift out the engine bolt?
Seems like a job I should try soon just for peace of mind. Not sure if I have something the right size in my garage already, will feel safer knowing i have exact size
I got a 2nd hand engine bolt buddy or simply measure the one as is
If you loosen the nut then turn the bolt head it is ok but when they seize they seize solid the alloy-steel thing. In between times I will undo the nut leaving it on the thread and tap the bolt out a wee bit and put some 3:1 oil on the bolt so it finds it’s way thro the tunnel, worth doing the gearbox bolt as well.
As long as it turns you can leave the taking out of the bolt untill warmer weather. ALWAYS support the sump so the engine can’t drop causing a problem getting it back.
Erm y may have gone a biiiit too far there Buzz
i was only going to do an oil change. lol.
Bit extreme for looking for the drain plug there Buzz …so DID you change the oil?
no the jack was in the way
The engine looks a bit black Buzz, are you building a rat bike?
As you have got that far, why not take the head and barrell off, it is much easier to refill it rather than trying to pour the new oil down the little hole in the side of the engine
blackinough for you chris?buzz2013-02-10 19:49:22
some bugers nicked me carbs.