le mans 1000 mk5 rear wheel strip down.

Hi ,
I am in the process of stripping the wheels down in preparation for powder coating.
The cushion pads are solid so I’ve ordered new from Gutsibits.
How is the spacer removed from the inner wheel, does it come out the drive side or the disc side?.
Also any tricks to getting the butten headed allen bolts out which secure the disc@s many thanks in advance.

The cush drive pads are pretty solid, I suspect you will find replacements to be little different. Some people drill holes in them to make them more compliant. I tend to take the view that Guzzi know best and leave them as they are.
Sorry, can’t help on removal of the spacer, I’ve never gone that far into mine.
Heat and patience will be your helper with getting those button head allen bolts out. Warm the hub up with a hot air gun or blow lanp so it is too hot to hold and make sure you have a very good well fitting allen key as they will be tight and stuck.
Good luck.

Sometimes the button heads just come out as normal but as mentioned heat always seems to work especially with a well fitting impact driver
If prepping for powder coating then everything has to be removed including wheel bearings etc. so centre spacer should not be a problem, it normally just drops out throany end. Mind you having said that I remember an Aprilia spacer that hadwelded itself to the hub` costing me a new wheel


many thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately there are a number of allen heads already rounded off so heat and an easy out may have to be the way ahead.

The button heads on my Lemon were so well corroded in that I ended up making two tangential cuts with a hacksaw to create two parallel flats that I could get a spanner on. A couple even needed stilsons.

Thanks David,
it’s always good to hear from others, you can’t read experience.

In the past I have seen my mate hammer in an oversize torx bit in to rounded off allen key bolts with great success but then, obviously, the bit was unsuitable for proper use after that.


Just having to wait to get to the shops for a blow torch, in the meantime will give the torx a try.

Success at last the bolts came out using an electric paint stripper. Now how to get the hub out of the rear wheel?.

Do you mean the splines that engage in the bevel box. It’s a long time since I did mine, but I’m sure it was quite simple. Is there a large circlip that holds it in place?
The bearings should just knock out with a drift inserted up the centre.


I have uploaded a picture of the ‘hub’ for clarity so you can see what I am speaking about.

Not sure myself, I haven’t stripped that bit out. More heat would be my first thought. But Chris may have a far greater knowledge
Could it be masked off and left in place whilst you have the wheels powder coated? Obviously the bearings would need to come out and be replaced.

I was thinking the same myself, it’s the first time I have thought about powder coating so not absolutely sure how stripped the wheel needs to be.On the Gutsibits website they have a bare rear wheel and the center hub has been removed. I think I’ll give Carlisle powder coater’s a ring on Monday and get some advice, rather not damage the wheel needlessly.
Front wheel bearings out and ready to go.

I have had a few bits powder coated before, like the rear swng arm off my Spada and I masked off the taper roller bearing with duct tape and it was fine.
Put some old bolts loosely in the disc holes and mask off where the bearings fit etc. Basically anywhere you don’t want the coating reaching.

I was thinking of putting the old fastenings in the wheels to protect the threads. The replacement screws from Guzzibits are a little eye watering price wise thought I’ll source them myself and upload to the forum my findings.

When I rebuilt my Lemon I sourced all my (Stainless Steel) fasteners from Spalding Fasteners.
Huge range and you can pick the quantity you need. (I have no afilliation with Spalding Fasteners)
Best wishes for your rebuild.

Thanks David, will have a look on the web at Spalding.

Blow torch!!!

Try a chefs blow torch helped me before on siezed bolts, this was on my old Yamaha xj900, when I coulldn’t get the downpipes off.

I’ve had a couple of Cali hubs powder coated. The steel boss/insert which carries the drive plate remained in place. The powder coaters blanked off any areas not needing powder coating.

Many thanks for that I was hoping to leave it in situ.