I’ve fitted the new UJ and carrier bearing. Fitted the swingarm (bit of a struggle).
How tight do I screw in the pivot pins?
I’ve checked Guzziology and a Spada workshop manual I have but no real guidance.
The V65 manual says “tighten fully” - whatever that means…
Any ideas please?
ta
stuart
is the rear drive still on the swinging arm ? if so remove it as the added weight will get in the way of refitting the s/arm pivot pins, and will also make it difficult to work out the free play in the s/arm, these pins are a fine thread item so you will need to be very carefull refitting, line up the s/arm and apply anti-seize grease to the area the pins go into. then screw in one of the pivot pins in by hand for just a few turns and then same again on the other side, and then repeat untill the pivot pins are as tight as they can be by hand and then slowly tighten with a decent correct sized allen key, or a decent screw driver if it is one of the older pivot pins, if the pin appears not to be going in right, stop, remove both pins and then start again, you just dont want to foul up the fine threaded area, as far as “how tight” well in 30+ years I have removed a few or more s/arms and refitted them all and I just tighten them up as much as possible without overtightening them , dont forget to leave enough of the pin sticking out for the lock nuts to go on, if after that there is no free play for the s/arm to move up and down you will have tightened it up too tight so losen the pivot pins by a turn or two.
Fab - I’ll do that - thanks 
Accepting that they are taper roller bearings then they can take a bit of pinch, but even so I only tighten gently - with the small length of the allen key. If they are screwdriver slotted, which I don’t think they should be on this late a bike then I’d swap them for the hex socket type anyway.
Mine are screwdriver slotted, however I used a socket set T bar with a impact driver bit holder, even so all I could do was as tight as was ‘reasonable’. I do them a bit overtight because when you do up the locknut it slackens it off slightly. Before that there should be same length of stud thread protruding from the frame on each side (measure with steel rule to nearest millimetre).
And yes refit without the final drive on it! You have to align it to the wheel spindle anyway requiring its fixing nuts to be loosened off.