I’ll keep the timing in mind… yes Reggie I rebuilt the engine completely. New valves, guides, all bearings. Replaced timing chain with straight cut gears…How would I know if cam timing is out?
Chokes is an interesting one, Guzziology details this scenario, worth checking…
T’is often the simplest of things…
Had trouble with chokes seating alright…and I’m dubious about the freeplay in the cable. Will defo check that first!
I realise that opinions are divided on this issue but I was never happy with the cable system on the chokes so I changed to the (less convenient) lever system where you can actually see that the chokes have closed,
Yes both Haynes and MG workshop manuals say K5, second notch. Just FYI, mine wouldn’t go past 100 mph. Never found out why but could have been ignition timing, not advanced enough maybe? Or more simply, engine worn so down on power a bit, and too much air resistance. IIRC 100 mph was only possible lying down on tank and if wind was in the right direction.
Motivlack wrote; “How would I know if cam timing is out?”
It is unlikely that the cam timing is out if the sprockets were clearly marked and you lined them up correctly. The only other way to check cam timing is with the timing wheel. Set the tappets to 1.5mm IIRC and see when the rocker arm just touches the tappet…but this would be much further down the line of checks for me. I personally found the standard chain wheel timing marks to be a bit ambiguous but as you say you’ve fitted straight cut gears…should be straightforward.
Mike H wrote; “Just FYI, mine wouldn’t go past 100 mph.”
I’m not sure exactly how fast mine goes as it has an optimistic speedo, but I seem to recall after the maths, it was around 100mph max, certainly nowhere near 110/120mph.
Sean, if you continue to be stuck, let me know and I’ll quickly see what’s in my carbs, as mine also a 950cc 9.1:1 CRReggieV2013-12-12 20:50:37
Given the opportunity, all my guzzis will willingly pull up to the red on the flat in top gear, er officer !
Around 16 and a half mph per 1000 rpm in top for a lemon, do the maths…
As you have a 950 conversion, would this not require changes to the standard carb setup?
Thanks guys…noticed that one of o rings on the choke plunger was missing and the bore the plunger sits in had a bit of carbon. Also the cable on the other one had seized and not letting the plunger seat I guess. Surely this wouldn’t help? Trying to remedy these now and then test again.
Dell’Orto manual says needle valve (that lets the petrol in, controlled by float) must be 5 times bigger than main jet size, I think, or in other words be able to supply fuel at a rate faster than it can be consumed. Which makes sense. Also are the jets covered in brown or green crud, if they are then are most likely partially blocked up. Guess how I know
To be fair 100mph from a Le mans is no way right. The V1000 with the T5 850 engine in ca be pushed to 100mph in 4th with the barn door screen that is real good. It will not rev out in top due to the bevel box gearing from the Convert so i treat 5th as an overdirvie That works fine on the V1000 for what I use it for.
Bit of an update. I went through the choke plungers and carbs with a fine tooth comb today and replace the o ring that was missing(borrowed from the t3) I then got it running on the bench and went through the gears to top gear and speedo indicated well over 120mph…I wont get to try on the road till tomorrow but it looks promising?? ps put needle in 3rd notch.
Well I’m glad you’re still here to tell the tale…phew.x
Not something I would try. But that hole in the garage wall will be quite useful.Remember running the engine without load will not reproduce on road conditions. Or was it a dyno bench?
Up on an ordinary bench/lift Brian…It’s fine cause the rear wheel is way up off it…plus had a few burly lads hold it down…Lashing down here today so I’d say a road test is off the cards as the ‘good’ bikes down come out in the wet. That’s what the BM is for
Blimey hope there’s no speed cameras about … What Brian said, meaningless without a realistic load Got a feeling problem is still there despite fiddling with chokes
But we hope not Sean eh Miko ?
Yer bench antics put me in mind of when I used to race cars on grass. This particular car was a stripped out and seamed welded Mk 2 Escort with a 2.4 all steel pinto motor in the front, which put out the same sort of power as a naturally aspirated Cosworth…
I, d taken it to the rollers and was at work when I had a fone call… one very disgruntled engine tuner…
Motor on full chat on rollers when the prop broke and tried to come thro the floor under the er, drivers seat…
‘Who the feck welded that prop up ?’
Ho hum…
Many dyno disasters on youtube, worth a gander if you’ve some time to kill. There is indeed a propshaft going spectacularly AWOL amongst that lot
Had the bike out today and still the same I’m afraid. Dies at anything over 5000rpm , about 80ish…so regardless of needle position it wont run right…Had thought of coils but resistance reading the same on both(pvl 6v) Have a spare set of lucas coils there too so could try those…Still think its carbs…don’t know…
OK, so if you think it’s carbs, what about asking your friend if he would allow you to try his carbs out on your bike? Even if they aren’t “tuned in” they should give you an idea as to whether this is where the fault lies.
Alternatively, go through your carbs checking float heights etc. Have you definitely got adequate fuel flow?
When I first rebuilt my bike it was always running badly or not at all on the left cylinder, and to my absolute surprise, on investigation there was some white debris, possibly residue of the tank deruster that I used blocking the fuel tap itself and the filter on the carb. Cleaning the debris out cured that problem…things are usually simple/obvious…when you find them.
Another thought, are the slides clearing the venturi/carb bore when the throttle is fully opened?ReggieV2013-12-16 21:12:06