They are alloy?
I thought they maybe lead the weight of them
I never had a problem with them leaking, I think you have to buy 8.3mm valves, like what Ducati and triumph use, rather than the 11.3 mm ones normally used, they are certainly around 8mm the hole in the rims
You can get them on eBay, but I suspect that your local tyre shop won’t have them in stock
I will be going tubeless on my project LM2
Yes the wheels are bleedin’ 'eavy
Dunno, think on my Le Mans 2 I will stick to tubes, I’ve got something about the tyres getting holed and it all ‘letting go’ very rapidly…
Ah now then ~
I was thinking about this sort of thing this very morning at least in the context of adding Ultraseal ~ it occurred to me tubeless should be easier to seal as it’s only one hole in a stiff tyre ~ conversely a holed inner tube woukd be more likely to just collapse and go floppy and useless.
Similarly, isn’t that the point of tubeless if memory serves, a tubeless tyre has a much better chance of deflating slowly whereas an inner tube will tend to just pop like a balloon. (?)
Discuss …
That was one of the stated advantages of tubeless tyres back in the day, though I seem to recall we were comparing tubes on spoked wheels (with lots of holes for the air to escape) with tubeless on alloys (with hopefully rather less!). The choice of either on an alloy, esp with tight fitting tyres? No idea!
Will you fit a tubeless type valve in the small hole in a Guzzi rim, that was designed for a tube valve?
Rim profile is different on tubeless compared to tubed rims i would never forget a tube on a 70/80 bike also if you look at tubes the fit a range of tyres i always put the biggest tube possible out of that range in the tyre that way it is never stretched thin that helps the tube if you get a puncture as it does not rip like a balloon ultra seal will only seal holes in the tread pattern area not on the rim and i have in the past used it on tubed tyres without a problem
Couldn’t tell you the science but I just ‘feel’ that a tube in a 1970s wheel getting holed would give you more leeway at speed than a modern tyre with no tube on a 1970s wheel - but I may be talking bollox. On my 1970s wheels (and 1960s/1950s/1940s wheels) I will stick to what they use then,. a tube, but a modern version thereof.italianmotor2014-08-04 10:57:59
Is it though? On mine at the mo the tube valves only just come through enough to get a locking type tyre pump nozzle onto. Front one I had to take the nut off too.
Anyway, only one way to find out!
Agree with that except I have had a leaking rim caused by inadequate rim cleaning cured by Ultraseal.If I could get my 1984 rims machined to take tubeless I would.
iandunmore2014-08-04 12:36:27
you have to fit a screw in valve, therefore the valve is located much in the same way as a bolt, therefore safer than a cheap rubber valve on a tube or normal modern valve,
designed, it’s just a hole you dafty
the same hole as used in countless other bikes and still used today on Triumphs and Ducatis
so what is the correct fittment, using tubless tyres with a tube fitted, or tubless tyres without a tube,both seem intrinsically wrong on a wheel made for tubes, and tyre manufacturers frown on you fitting tubes to a tubeless rim, inside a tubless tyre as its difficult to get the air out between the tube and the tyre, which as the LM rims seem to hold air could have the same problem!
as far as I can tell, the only difference in the profile is a slight curved lip on the inside of the wheel rim, to discourage the tyre from coming off as it deflates, I will have to check whether the LM wheel has this lip,the 85 R100RT has it and they are tubless fitment, though tubes don’t stop this from happening at all, so they offer no advantage in this respect, and tubless tyres do seem to be a tight fitting on the LM rim anyway,
advantages of tubeless are easier to fix punctures when out on the road, as the tyre can be fixed whilst still fitted, and tyres are easier to mount!
ianboydsnr2014-08-04 12:56:58
Yes re the lip, or groove, to locate the tyre bead and stop it dropping into the well on deflation, all models with those alloy wheels will have them. Is also what makes the tyres a bar steward to get off and on IMO which is why I prefer to have someone else do it. The first time I tried DIY on the Spada I couldn’t understand what I was doing wrong. Took a long time for the penny to drop.
I’m not adding anything intelligent to the conversation, but when I had my tyres fitted at a specialist bike tyre fitters, they fitted the tyres without tubes.
The front did start to lose pressure after a few months, so I put some “tyre-weld” or similar in and all has been well ever since (up to now).
I did wonder if it was wise not to put a tube in, but it sounds as if there isn’t a definitive answer. Is that good or not?
So what’s so bad about the Avons?
I had a pair of Road Riders, great when new but when getting down a bit (still well legal), it twitched and reacted to lumps bumps, white lines cats eyes, bad road surfaces etc etc. It just felt awful.Still got the front one on 6000 miles later, no sign of any wear on it, I might change that soon
There have been many cases of the Avons developing big cracks between the tread too.
Hopefully that issue has been sorted, but it has made a lot of people wary of Road Runners
The way I understand it a puncture will 'pop' an inner tube and since the tyre itself is not really sealed, it will deflate quickly. In the case of a tubeless tyre the only way out for air to escape is via the actual puncture hole, the bead being better sealed, the idea being it deflates slower giving you more control for longer in which to stop safely. In theory. In fact if it's a nail or screw that stays in there you might even get home without knowing anything about it ~ and find the tyre has gone flat overnight. This actually happened to me on a car, it had picked up two nails in a service area car park and still finished the journey!