Lemans mk2 torque settings

Proceeding steadily with engine rebuild of my 82 Lemans 2 B&G. Have Haynes and Guzzi workshop manual. Have timing chain in place, sprockets on and ready for timing cover but want to check whether there are torque settings for the crank shaft locking nut, camshaft locking nut and the smaller nut for the oil pump. Can see any reference in the manuals. Also do the lines on the camshaft sprocket and crankshaft line up perfectly. I can get them almost and any other chain position put me further away. The photos in Haynes looks very similar to mine. Any help gratefully received.


My MG manual says 15 kg m or 87 ft/lbs for the camshaft nut. Which should have a wavy washer behind it, which is same item as mainstand pivot wavy washer or so I’m led to believe. The crank nut you can only do up so far to where a tag of the tag washer will then align to a slot in the nut, then have to leave it there. For the pump sprocket nut again no torque given, but should to have a spring or wavy washer behind it? Possibly wrongly described as “circlip” HTH

Thanks for this. On checking the general torque setting you are right that it is quite a high setting for the cam shaft. My Guzzi manual says just over 100PPSI but my torque wrench only goes up to around 50. Your also spot on with the circlip reference on the pump sprocket. Thought I have an other rogue item but mine has a spring washer like you say.

Thanks once again


This was mine when I set it up, I seem to remember they lined up reasonably well, but not perfect. The next tooth around would have been miles out. Can’t remember the torque settings, sorry.

Yes must be right, the distance between links won’t allow any other position. PS: if it helps I put some nutlok on the camshaft thread as well.
Mike H2014-05-06 15:45:29

The nuts are locked in place with tab washers so it is highly unlikely anything will come undone. I just tend to go for good n tight on something like this, but a lot less on the oil pump as it only has a little nut.

No only crank nut has tab washer. (?)

Yes . Thanks The camshaft has the wavy spring washer and the pump has the standard spring washer. I think I’m there now. Thanks for all the tips

Just one thought. You have fitted a tensioner to the chain haven’t you. It’s not still got the old manual one in has it?

Yes thanks

I got the new sprung type but it seems quite tight. It seems to fit between the crankcase and the chain and simply the chain compressed against the curved tensioner.

I guess this is right. there is no adjustment possible. New chain aswell

I just reviewed the photo above and mine looks exactly like this.

All sounds good to me.

If that's the one Don posted a photo of, I think that is how it is, due to the spring. Although somebody wrote last year (I think?) about how his one had chewed up. (?)   The common criticism about the old standard rubber block type is how it won't push up far enough, but personally I think this may be a clue that the chain is 'stretched' and needs renewing. Also mustn't be too tight, all it does is stop the slack run flapping about (it is not a tensioner in the strictest sense), so if you set it too tight all you'll probably get is chewed up rubber bits in the sump. (Somebody has posted about that too.)   HTH

I think its definitely the case that the chain is knackered when the tension block fails to take up the slack. This was the case with mine hence new chain and tensioner. Mine was so slack it caused slight chaffing on the crank case. The new hard plastic sprung tension plate seems fairly slippery at the moment. Finger crossed. Its not like I’m going to be touring through Europe on it in the next few months. Oh wait a minute … yes I am.

Thanks for all you tips

Hopefully get some pics of it on the forum and the other two (V50 11 and Cali EV) before we set sail.

Yes often what happens, where it flies off the pump sprocket I think.

The new hard plastic sprung tension plate seems fairly slippery at the moment.

Ah what is mounted on a right-angled support back plate?