Linked brakes, 1994 California

Refitted the master cylinder yesterday, not bled the brakes as man flu got the better of me. Question for you all, is the brake switch a pressure sensitive banjo bolt fitting? I couldn’t see a mechanical switch anywhere! Admitedly I couldnt muster the enthusiasm to lay on the floor and look for one.

Linked brake pressure switch is on the inside of the proportioning valve, usually under a rubber cover and hard to see.

Thank you. In hindsight, hopefully I will only need to bleed the brakes from the manifold, ( looked it up in guzziology, the Cali’3 has a manifold and not a proportioning valve) as any air inthe system will only be inbetween the manifold and master cylinder… or I am I being optimistic :smiley:

Sod’s law says no! :smiley:

I feel that I shouldn’t have tempted fate :confused:

I couldn’t see a bleed nipple on the manifold,… garage is not powered, the access driveway is on quite a steep slope! :frowning:

Sucked lots of fluid through using the Mityvac, brakes are still crap, but better, at least the pressure activated brake switch is activating.

I feel the need to remove the caliper, so that the nipple is facing upwards.

I also feel the need to retrieve my hydraulic bike lift from my parents, not sure that it will of any use on the Cali’ due to the long foot lever on the mainstand. :frowning:

At work at the moment, I can’t visualise the rear caliper. Rear silencers off, rear wheel off time i think! :frowning: :frowning:

When I removed the wheel before, I did it the hard way compared to the tyre fitter. Problem is I can’t remeber how he made it easier.

What’s the simplest item / items to remove on the exhaust system?

I think I unclamped everything from the downpipes.

Not sure with your model but I would think that all you would need to remove are the silencers.

remoev the left silencer and hanger, ( AS ONE) then if you are tall enough, stand on the right hand side of bike and lean it towards you.then reach across and remove the wheel. it’s not as complicated as it sounds.
or place some thing under the centre stand to raise it by at least an inch.

there’s no easy way to say this but (unless you are incredibly lucky) you are going to need to get both front and rear calipers up above the master cylinder before you can hope to get a linked brake working properly
I found it best to get both calipers off their mountings, with a piece of plywood to take up disc space, and hang them from the ceiling using wire.

I have succeeded before by having the bleeding jar (not swearing :smiley: ) higher than the caliper, needs a longish piece of plastic tubing to reach, placed say up around steering head / handlebars level. Then all bubbles should go up to the jar not back into the caliper.

Get yourself a large syringe and a length of clear tube and suck the brake fluid out from the callipers.
Works much better.
I have not had to remove the callipers ever.

After bleeding brakes and not extracting any more air. I adjusted the pedal position, it now sits higher, brake now works.

Just bled my Spada - first time I’ve done a Guzzi linked system. Went round proportioning valve, front caliper, rear caliper a couple of times and no more air seemed to come out anywhere. Had son helping to operate pedal so I could open and close bleed screws to stop any air re-entering. The brakes stop the wheel but the bike is not rideable yet so I don’t know how well it works. At the moment the pedal travel seems rather a lot, but I don’t know what’s normal.

I agree with Nigel W. I had to suspend the calipers to get the air out on my T3 brake lines (left them overnight).
My helper (ie son) went to Uni and never returned, not that I blame him one bit. I ended up buying some of those Stahlbus bleeders which make life a lot easier when replacing the fluids. They include a one way valve so I don’t have to reach over the bike all the time whilst trying to bleed the brakes.



If you pressed the pistons back and/or installed new pads they will need to bed in again which will cause a bit of long travel until they have. I agree tho that you must get the air bubbles to go up, so caliper / bleeding jar high up…

Road tested, all is well.

I am experimenting with a Gunsons Eezibleed on the T3. It worked very well on the handlebar master cylinder, but I have had to make up an adapter for the rear reservoir cap that isn’t entirely leak free yet… I’ll let you know how I get on.

Don’t store the Eezibleed in your garage.
Over winter the rubber parts freeze and shrink/perish.
Somewhere like the airing cupboard is good.
Before this happened to me it was a superb system.

Thanks fir the tip.