OK I cobbled this together: I have used these relays, really quite small and easily cable-tied to a frame tube etc. or bundle of wires, only thing is 3 of the blades are not full standard 6.3mm width but 6.3mm connector will go on. http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/12vdc-Spco-Automotive-Relay-Srz-60-1910 HTH
Mike H2013-07-20 15:43:58
Yes that looks like it will work, but I would like to run the main/dipped beam through a relay as well, as the switchgear uses a mate n lok plug and the pins are only 2mm, the lights common that supplies the sidelights, main, dipped and flash and the horn is one of those 2mm pins, so possibly drawing 6A when the lights are on, I know the pins are rated for more than that, but it’s still a lot of power running through that pin, relaying would slow the wear on that pin as well as the switch contacts, or am I being to cautious?
If it’s a kosher Mate-N-Lok they are rated for 15 Amps each contact (and 600V!) - according to their spec on Rapid Electronics product page. I guess the pins are 2mm yes. They ain’t big. Hollow tin-plated brass. If we’re talking about the same thing. HTH
[QUOTE=Mike H]
If it’s a kosher Mate-N-Lok they are rated for 15 Amps each contact (and 600V!) - according to their spec on Rapid Electronics product page. I guess the pins are 2mm yes. They ain’t big. Hollow tin-plated brass. If we’re talking about the same thing. HTH [/QUOTE]
That I don’t know, but if it isn’t than it will be, once I buy some, I am still leaning toward relaying main and dip, I like those relays though, I may locate them in the headlamp!!
Very useful for at some point in the future, thanks Mike H…
I ordered 5 yesterday and they came today, they really are small, the 3 smaller terminals are standard 4.8mm spade terminals, the larger are standard 6.3 spade terminals ianboydsnr2013-07-24 15:16:06
Yes. Still work though.
yes they will work, I have ordered the correct 4.8mm terminals and covers though, half pence of tar and all that
Started removing the old wiring today, some horrors, with wire that was half melted, and chock a block used as connections
This is it all out and on the floor
What is that thing under the fuse box, it looks to me like its a relay and it would figure that it is the starter relay, as it’s an odd looking and rather large thing, it’s a little bit hidden, so I just removed the leads!
Now I am replacing the fuse box, with modern blade fuse one, I wonder if I should replace this relay and if so what size should I buy, it worked perfectly well, so I may just remove and clean up the terminals, it’s not as if I can’t be replaced if it becomes faulty?
Also what holds the battery in place, there doesn’t seem to be any method of restraining it, the battery that is fitted seems rather small in comparison to the box it sits in, should it fill the box?ianboydsnr2013-07-26 21:36:55
I have just noticed today that the switchgear that I have used is the same as the breva 1100, the light switch is marked mode 1 and 2 and it has an extra button to operate the dash, but it’s the same switch gear and the right hand side is exactly the same
Yes it’s the old style relay for starter. On mine just the empty shell was left! So I took it out plus the mounting plate. I’m using a 30 - 40 Amp modern square relay with integral bracket for M6 bolt. It’s anchored inside the back of the battery space to one of the rear mudguard bolts. Or in your case, probably just where the plastic mudguard part is bolted to the frame at the top. HTH
Mike H2013-07-28 20:16:35
On some Guzzis the start relay is kinda stuffed under therighthand side panel kinda behind the rear master cylinder.
Upgrade it with a 35+ amp accessory relay, preferable with inbuilt fuse and DO the wiring mod as in FAQ
Yep that’s the area
[QUOTE=guzzibear] On some Guzzis the start relay is kinda stuffed under therighthand side panel kinda behind the rear master cylinder.
Â
Upgrade it with a 35+ amp accessory relay, preferable with inbuilt fuse and DO the wiring mod as in FAQ[/QUOTE]
I had already thought about the switch and was planning on having the switch operate a relay, to supply the fuse box and starter circuit, via a 30 amp fuse, i have ordered a relay to supply the starter, they will be in a pair of relay holders, with 3 fuse holders, I will use one for each circuit, and have two holders spare, on each relay holder, there will of course be the six fuse box, but at least I will have some spare fuses
Well finally got to the point where I can connect the battery, after a couple of small problems, it seems to work fine except
when you switch it onto park, the side lights light up as expected, only if you move the light switch on the handle bar, the power back feeds through the switch and into the fuse box, and the relay buzzes, so I either
live with it, just don’t use the left switch gear when the bike has the parking light on, or
Diode in the power line to the switch, stopping the current flowing back through the switch, anyone know which one?
pull the fuse and forgo the use of side lights when in park, after all I don’t use them on any of my other bikes!
That shouldn’t happen if wired as above. ‘NO’ = normally open (COM only connects when energised)‘NC’ = normally closed (COM always connected while NOT energised) COM = 30NC = 87ANO = 87coil = 85, 86 Note side/park lights (yellow) must be connected to the COM pin (30) to work as intended. HTH PS: if light switch is connected to 87 (NO) cannot be possible for power to feed back, as this contact is disconnected from 30 (by default).
Mike H2013-08-09 14:53:54
I see what I have done wrong, I have put the yellow supply from the switch gear, together with the sidelight feed wires, doh
Oh right that’ll do it then, cos I couldn’t see how else it could feed back and be operating the coil on and off (relay buzzing) Light switch must connect to side lights through 87 - 30
[QUOTE=Mike H]
Oh right that’ll do it then, cos I couldn’t see how else it could feed back and be operating the coil on and off (relay buzzing) Light switch must connect to side lights through 87 - 30 [/QUOTE]
Now sorted and working perfectly,
And had the bike running, and the charging system is working correctly!
Anyone want the remains of the old loom, I have cut a couple of bits off, the switch wiring and the alternator wiring, so I could use the seal, but all the plugs and sockets are there, maybe usefull to help someone repair theirs!ianboydsnr2013-08-10 14:04:30