anyone got a link to a colour wiring diagram,i am looking to re wire mine, and I would like to use the original colours!
I can send you a colour pdf for free if you want an A3 laminated copy for the workshop see link below
http://www.motoguzziclub.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16390Chris950s2013-07-15 10:41:56
Well a laminated copy would be great, but when I rewire it will include modern switchgear, and probably non standard plugs and sockets, with relays added, and unused bits removed, so won’t look anything like the original, I just want the basic circuits to utilise the original colours, just for troubleshooting purposes!
current wiring makes extensive use of chocoblock
a pdf of the loom would be great, I will send you a pm ianboydsnr2013-07-15 11:12:52
I have listed some sw gear wiring in FAQ or non oem bits thread .
The New V11 Le Mans switchgear is the same as you find on a Honda Firestorm.
On the V1000 I have had Yamaha
then went to Suzuki
and finally Triumph on the left and R1 on the right as I like the lights on/off on the right.
Over the years I find it is far easier to leave the 12/15 way plug intact cut the wires long and then using heat shrink sleeve and stagger the connections and solder them.
You can then just twist the wires to test them prior to soldering.
Once all checked out then pop the large outer heat shrink over and cut the wires so they are staggered so no rubbing thro the individual heat shrink can cause a short cct.
Tip when testing the wires out it is also a good idea to have some spare fuses, just in case.
re test and solder then apply heat shrink… finally slide the outer over and seal… all done… easy to do takes about 1 1/2 hrs in all
guzzibear2013-07-15 12:21:51
[QUOTE=guzzibear] I have listed some sw gear wiring in FAQ or non oem bits thread .
Â
The New V11 Le Mans switchgear is the same as you find on a Honda Firestorm.
Â
On the V1000 I have had Yamaha
then went to Suzuki
and finally Triumph on the left and R1 on the right as I like the lights on/off on the right.
Â
Over the years I find it is far easier to leave the 12/15 way plug intact cut the wires long and then using heat shrink sleeve and stagger the connections and solder them.
Â
You can then just twist the wires to test them prior to soldering.
Once all checked out then pop the large outer heat shrink over and cut the wires so they are staggered so no rubbing thro the individual heat shrink can cause a short cct.
Â
Tip when testing the wires out it is also a good idea to have some spare fuses, just in case.
Â
re test and solder then apply heat shrink… finally slide the outer over and seal… all done… easy to do takes about 1 1/2 hrs in all
 [/QUOTE]
I haven’t looked at the big connector, I was kind of thinking that I would replace it with a couple of smaller but new ones, but your way may be better!
I was going to fit one of these switchgear
left switchgear
and this for the other side
right switchgearianboydsnr2013-07-15 13:07:09
It may or may not help, but this is my colours table from when I did mine just recently. I kept the same colours and the basic layout of the loom as much as possible. Don’t think the Mk2 colours are different. Black - All earths, horn button earth side (LP1). White -#1. Ignition switch ‘run’ > kill switch;#2. kill switch > ignition coils+. Green - #1. Ignition switch ‘park’ > fuse F4;#2. dip switch > headlamp dip beam. Grey - Was headlamp flasher button (not used). Violet -#1. Neutral switch > dash lamp. ‡#2. Regulator DF+ > alternator rotor (brushes). Orange - Flasher unit > turn indicator switch. Pink - Indicator switch > right indicators. Red -#1. F4 > lights switch ‘park’ (side lights only);#2. battery+ > F5 & F6 (always live);#3. Rectifier D+ > regulator D+;#4. starter relay to starter solenoid. Red 30A [thick] -#1. Rectifier +out > battery+ (big blade);#2. Rectifier +out (battery+) > ignition switch input (small blade). Brown -#1. ignition switch ‘run’ > fuses F1, F2, F3 (30A [thick]);#2. dip switch > headlamp high beam;#3. F1 > headlamp flash relay (mod: not implemented) and thence horn+ supply †;#4. F2 > starter relay contacts and coil (unless modded). Yellow - #1. light switch > side lights;#2. Alternator phases to rectifer x3. Blue -#1. rectifier D+ (regulator) > ‘Gen’ dash lamp;#2. F1 > rear brake switch+ supply;#3. brown horn †> front brake switch+ supply;#4. alternator stator centre taps > rectifier (not implemented). Red/Black - F3 > instrument console (Voltmeter & warning lights*), and light switch headlamp section (that function taken over by headlamp enable relay).(* ^ mod: via kill sw instead (white)) Blue/Black -#1. F2 > flasher unit;#2. Oil pressure switch > dash lamp. Green/Black - Indicator switch > left indicators. White/Brown - Starter button+ > starter relay coil- (should be white/black). Red/Blue - Brake switches > rear brake lights. Red/Yellow - brake fluid level switch > dash lamp.
that sw gear is very like fitted to the V11 lemans it is a hell of a job to swap the 12/15 way blocks the only real replacement are mate n lock ones and if yours are ok, clean them and then seal with silicone… guzzibear2013-07-15 19:29:53
Just FYI you can get Mate-n-Lok from Vehicle Wiring Products, I used their 15-way pair: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/multiconnectors.php Note however the pins have splits down them, presumably to make them more springy? Push into the socket easier? Whatever I wasn’t overly sure about this so instead I’ve used the Mate-n-Lok pins from Rapid Electronics, which are ‘solid’ (well hollow really, but at least fully round like a tube, no splits) the plastic bodies are somewhat different as well, and more white in colour. (Rather than off-white.) So I had/have (acquired earlier, for other stuff as well) packs of 100 each Mate-n-Lok pins and receptacles from Rapid and used these in the VWP 15-way connector, then I’ve got the white Rapid bodies for the handlebar connectors.
Email sent with colour pdf wiring diagram
[QUOTE=Mike H]
Just FYI you can get Mate-n-Lok from Vehicle Wiring Products, I used their 15-way pair: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/connectors/multiconnectors.php Note however the pins have splits down them, presumably to make them more springy? Push into the socket easier? Whatever I wasn’t overly sure about this so instead I’ve used the Mate-n-Lok pins from Rapid Electronics, which are ‘solid’ (well hollow really, but at least fully round like a tube, no splits) the plastic bodies are somewhat different as well, and more white in colour. (Rather than off-white.) So I had/have (acquired earlier, for other stuff as well) packs of 100 each Mate-n-Lok pins and receptacles from Rapid and used these in the VWP 15-way connector, then I’ve got the white Rapid bodies for the handlebar connectors.  [/QUOTE]
I have been having a dilemma about which connectors to use, I am not really up on connectors, do you recommend the mate n lok, do you need anything special to fit the pins?
what are the rapid bodies?
I had found this site AES which seem to supply the thin wall wire in cut length and two colour, and seemed keener priced on the connectors from vehicle products!
Thats a work of art
Think I will order the A3 size, I can hang it on my office wall after I have used it!
Right so - here is the Rapid page for Mate-N-Lok connector blocks: http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/AMP-Mate-N-Lok-Crimp-Connectors-63554 … NOTE contacts are separate (packs of 100 of each): http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Crimp-Terminals-for-Mate-N-Lok-Connectors-63555 I used this crimping tool for everything just about, including the Mate-N-Lok, just about works if you don’t mind it doing the insulation gripping part simultaneously. http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/Terminal-Crimping-Tool-for-Non-Insulated-Connectors-85-0258 This is fine for single wires, gets somewhat tricky for 2 wires, really too fat, so for that I had to back it up with soldering. You crimp the Mate-N-Lok connector onto the stripped wire, then push it into the plug block from the back and it clicks in. All mine had heat shrink sleeving put on as well to cover the crimped area. The pin numbers are embossed on the back of the block, if very tiny! Also pin #1 is identifed by a ridge on the corner. The orignal loom didn’t have thin wall wires so I didn’t bother for the new loom. Most of the wire is the standard Ref. 14 from VWP, in many cases thicker than the original loom’s wires (there are subtle variations), for the high current stuff I think it was Ref. 44 or something like that. Although the stuff I’ve got has 48 strands but can’t for the life of me find out where I got it from. They didn’t have yellow I know that. I thought it was Maplin but blowed if I can find it if it was (been searching for ages). HTH
[QUOTE=ianboydsnr] [QUOTE=guzzibear] I have listed some sw gear wiring in FAQ or non oem bits thread .
Â
The New V11 Le Mans switchgear is the same as you find on a Honda Firestorm.
Â
On the V1000 I have had Yamaha
then went to Suzuki
and finally Triumph on the left and R1 on the right as I like the lights on/off on the right.
Â
Over the years I find it is far easier to leave the 12/15 way plug intact cut the wires long and then using heat shrink sleeve and stagger the connections and solder them.
Â
You can then just twist the wires to test them prior to soldering.
Once all checked out then pop the large outer heat shrink over and cut the wires so they are staggered so no rubbing thro the individual heat shrink can cause a short cct.
Â
Tip when testing the wires out it is also a good idea to have some spare fuses, just in case.
Â
re test and solder then apply heat shrink… finally slide the outer over and seal… all done… easy to do takes about 1 1/2 hrs in all
 [/QUOTE]
I haven’t looked at the big connector, I was kind of thinking that I would replace it with a couple of smaller but new ones, but your way may be better!
I was going to fit one of these switchgear
left switchgear
and this for the other side
right switchgear[/QUOTE]
just found a problem with the switchgear,
it’s wired
Dark blue is indicator supply live
light blue is left indicator
red is right indicator
green is lights common live
grey is the horn
Yellow is side lights
blue/white is high beam/flash light
black is low beam
it seems on this switch the horn button is fed live from the green common live that feeds the lights, so to use the switchgear I either have to wire the horn live switched instead of how it is standard which is earth switched, or use a relay to switch it, and of course the park light needs a bit of thought ianboydsnr2013-07-19 15:23:15
Oh the hours of endless fun that can be had puzzling over non-standard switches and wire colours As regards park, you might have to opt for how my R80 does it ~ when you turn the key to park, lights come on, that’s it. Problem is how to do it. Off the top of my head, a changeover relay that connects side lights only (yellow wires) to fuse 4, but when activated switches over to the lighting switch output (light switch input is from fuse 3), and only when F3 goes live (ignition run position) in other words its coil is activated from F3 as well. (?) I think you’re right about the horn, needs a relay if you want to keep earth switched.
Mike H2013-07-19 16:15:44
I suppose connecting after the switch gear into the 15 way connector at number 10 which is the side lights, to fuse 4 which is connected to the second switch position, will work!
the horn will be wired positive switched, hardly ever use the damn thing anyhow, but I will use a relay for switching between high beam and low, I guess one of those relays with the extra terminal will work there, no power to relay low beam, powered relay high beam ianboydsnr2013-07-19 16:53:38
Yes except you won’t then be able to turn them off, except with the key; fuse 4 is live for ign run mode as well. It isn’t only for park. This is why the original Guzzi lighting switch has 2 separate inputs, from F4 for side lights, and F3 for headlamp. In park, only F4 has power, for run mode, both F4 & F3. I can envisage a relay’s normally-closed contacts connecting F4 to number 10, then F3 (red-black wire?) to relay’s coil, and its normally-open contact to light switch o/p #1, the side lights being on the common (moving) contact of the relay. Then when F3 comes on, side lights are magically connected to lighting switch output #1. If that makes sense…
Mike H2013-07-19 20:59:56
  Yes except you won’t then be able to turn them off, except with the key; fuse 4 is live for ign run mode as well. It isn’t only for park. This is why the original Guzzi lighting switch has 2 separate inputs, from F4 for side lights, and F3 for headlamp. In park, only F4 has power, for run mode, both F4 & F3.  I can envisage a relay’s normally-closed contacts connecting F4 to number 10, then F3 (red-black wire?) to relay’s coil, and its normally-open contact to light switch o/p #1, the side lights being on the common (moving) contact of the relay. Then when F3 comes on, side lights are magically connected to lighting switch output #1. If that makes sense… Â
[/QUOTE]
I had foolishly assumed that the park on the switch only went live when you switched to park’
Now my head hurts
So if I 5 pin relay F4 using F3 to to switch off F4 when ignition is switched on, then it should work, is that what your saying?
blimey I will need a top box for all the relays
don’t mind me rambling on ianboydsnr2013-07-20 11:04:42
Yes unfortunately the light switch does off side and main, all from the same source, if you want park it’s extra complication. If I get a minute I’ll draw some sort of diagram but pruning in the garden at the mo. I found these slimline relays from Rapid Electronics which are quite good, not bulky like what you normally expect. Sure you could hide it behind the steering head somewhere.
HTH
I thought of fitting one of These in a project box, as I have one already, it should switch main/low and the park light!
Good lord too bulky & conplicated. Right today I have successfully destroyed a lilac bush a rose and some ivy, just had me dinner so now I’m on the case