Loop – Engine out.

So my newly acquired Loop has broken the shift return spring. It’s an 850 Eldo with the 5 speed box. Whilst I’m in there I’m going to get the g/box fully inspected and also take a view on putting a new clutch in. So I’m going to be pulling the entire motor/transmission from the bike I think. I’ve only worked on Tontis before, so I have some questions;

. Will I be able to pull the transmission out from the engine without removing the engine entirely from the frame?
. If the engine and transmission have to come out as a unit first, what is the best technique for this … I imagine it I all pretty heavy?

I have a lifting table where most of the activities will be performed. I mostly work on my bikes alone.

Any other gotchas I need to be aware of?


Lucky enough never had to pull mine apart yet, although I think there may be a bearing dying in the gearbox…

I have a factory workshop manual if you want me to see what it says, and maybe scan a few pages for you.

I took my engine and transmission out earlier this year and I took the gear box off first. Its not too hard, you leave the front engine bolt in but loose and hinge (jack) up the engine and gearbox and then remove box. However you are then only that bolt away from taking the engine out. For me it all went very smoothly. I only needed a quick 5 mins of the other half’s time to help me lift the engine out. Essential reading is thisoldtractor, there’s a step by step section on engine and gearbox removal and suggestions on what to do whilst your at it. I quite enjoyed it. Good luck
Cheers Ian

As Beluga says, there is no need to remove the engine.The gearbox comes out quite easily on its’ own. :smiley:
One of the nice things about the four-speed boxes is that the spring in question can be replaced easily from the outside.

Hi guys in another moment of madness bought an 850 Elderado which it is claimed has done only 3500 miles. About to start reconditioning, don’t even know if it is four or five speed!! Anyway initial issues are obviously changing all fluids, can see strainer which as expected seems “new” other parts seem to confirm that its been stood for 40years!! Is there any pitfall that I’m about to fall in? Concerned about seals being hard n brittle, correct oils, unleaded petrol? ignition timing believe new fuels need ignition retarded slightly from original settings. Black thing on top of engine appears to be a dynamo, again is there a lubrication tip that should be done before start up?
Was convinced at a club rally that these bikes are as tough as old boots and make a reliable usable classic? Initialy have been very impressed with both the simplicity and rugged engineering on the parts that I have disassembled. Ordered guzziology but taking a long time to appear from the good ole USA. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks regards Ratt 07788510474

The only issue I would initially be concearned about would be chrome barrels, if the bike has been standing it’s possible for the chrome to peel. On the American loop frame yahoo forum it is seen as good policy to check before starting after a long lay up. I personally go along with this. I would order a set of head gaskets and take a look. Others will disagree. The trouble is as there is no oil filter and if the chrome peels it’s a very extensive and expensive job. I think the Eldorado should have a 5 speed box. I’ve got 1971 V7 Special, and I find it very reliable, robust, easy to maintain and a engaging bike to ride. Loads of info on the above forum and the Greg Bender thisoldtractor.
Cheers Ian

Thanks for that, think I will wash sump out with parafin and carefully check content. My camera on a stick might help, do you know if gaskets are available UK ? Thanks regards Ratt

yes they are try gutsibits

I still have chrome barrels on my '72 850GT (European version of Eldorad). If you have the sump off already, you can see up up the bores and have a look at them, although you can only see the bit that the piston doesn’t cover!. Agree that all 850’s should be 5-speed.
Excepting the chrome bores, I’d say get it running and see what issues arise. I put a Spada back on the road a couple of years ago that had been standing for 15 years, and had no problems with the gearbox or engine, apart from a leaky sump (bad weld repair by previous owner).

Not end of world if bores are gone: Nikasil T3 ones fit. Mine had these fitted 60k odd ago and doing just fine, previous chromed jobbies got up to (I was led to believe) similar mileage before taking out big ends!!

Had the same job done on my cali a year ago: barrels/piston/rings/pin etc, £250 a side

I mentioned this because I also have Eldorado which I’m slowly refurbishing and I’ve had to replace the barrels and the big ends due to peeling chrome. I’ve replaced the barrels with a set from Gutsibits (under £500.00 for new nikasil barrels, pistons, pins and rings) Nigel of NBS reground the crank. But because the chrome had peeled I had to make sure their was no bits of chrome anywhere within the engine, so a full engine strip was required. Not a horrible job if you can take your time. If the chrome is good the barrels may well be great to use. But in my case the chrome had peeled from the top of the barrel. It’s not a big job to take off the heads.
Cheers Ian

Thanks for the tips, decided to install the bike on the bench remove the sump for debris examination and bottom of bores, :open_mouth: then remove heads, hopefully all will be well, regards Ratt

There are conflicting opinions regarding retaining the old chrome bores.You pays your money (or not) and make your choice.Just keep in mind that once you spy chrome in your oil it’s TOO LATE.Whilst you have the engine apart it is also a good idea to check the condition of your cam followers.They are prone to cavitation of the surface hardening,I’ve no idea why.

Our friends on the other side of the pond would think you insane to not replace the cylinders if you are working on the engine. They will have been there for 40 odd years and it is really a no brainer. If they go your engine will be in a mirriad of pieces to fix it. I got mine from .Germany (twice, Eldorado and Ambassador) cheaper - not sure how the failing pound has affected prices though

1.33 Euros to the pound last time I looked.

Man, that must have been the day before the Brexit vote count was out.

I might have misremembered, checked it just now is currently: 1.12 Euros to the pound.

Anyway the point being they are approaching parity.