Love your Guzzi – Preventative maintenance.

Love your Guzzi – Preventative maintenance. The short and the long of it.

Although I’m sure some of you ride all year round, for many of us Winter is the slack season for biking. Up here in Scotland it’s just that bit less pleasant a lot of the time through the winter and as I write, the roads have been covered in salt as we hit our first real cold spell this winter.

For those of you who have short attention spans and don’t need detail, I’m suggesting you take the opportunity to use the winter biking down time to do (or get done if you’re not a spannering fan) some preventative maintenance. Specifically, if you have bought a modern Guzzi in the last few years I would strongly advocate the following:

· Remove the bevel box and pull out the swing-arm to grease the swing-arm bearings and apply appropriate cardan spline lube to the shaft splines.

· Pull down the steering head and grease the steering head bearings.

· If you have a V100 assess the lateral float on the swingarm spindle once the wheel and suspension lower mount are removed.

I would have thought any local bike shop worth their salt should be able to do those things if you can’t or don’t want to yourself and based on my experience early intervention will save pain and cost in the medium to long term. As a ‘be good to the world’ side-effect, winter’s also local bike shop slack season, so giving them the work is doing us all a favour.

For those of you with the time and inclination, here is the long version.

I bought a V100 Mandello S new in November 2022, taking delivery in June 2023; I have over the intervening two and a half years had a love-hate relationship with this bike and I accept that in part this is a function of my own high expectations having paid out a fortune for a modern bike with a raft of additions and upgrades.

If you follow model specific forums on the club site or any of the facebook groups, there are plenty of folk bemoaning how things are put together and lack of dealer/factory support etc – I don’t want to get into that here, I’ve reached the point where I want it right, so I’m doing whatever needs doing to get it right.

I’ve had the bike dealer serviced from new. In June 2025, 15,000 mile service I asked for them to check swing arm play, clearly they didn’t or didn’t know what they were looking for and said it was fine. Andy May and I had been comparing notes before this and he has already written an excellent article on this, look it up for detail. I appreciate non-V100 bikes may not have lateral play issues in the same way, but I had to shim out 1.0mm of lateral movement when I checked and then removed the swingarm. Best assessed with the rear wheel out, the lower suspension mount undone and shock swung out of the way. I rested the bevel box on an extension bar as a roller on top of an axle stand.

I can’t upload it here, but for anyone interested, I have a wee video clip showing the movement - it looks way more than a millimeter!

Equally important was the other issues I found – no grease on the swingarm bearings along with the drive shaft and bevel connection splines showing no lubrication and significant rust. This rust causes accelerated spline wear because the rust layer is softer than the steel. For the time and effort involved, it’s well worth a strip down, clean up and appropriate lubrication. The swingarm bearings were OK, but the spindle was already showing marks due to the bearings having no lubrication, I suspect these would become wear fairly quickly.

Having had a faulty fuel level sender since the summer, I got back from a long trip in October with a badly leaking fork seal. The dealer took the bike in and fixed both, but I also reported notchy steering and they declined that under warranty citing it is a wear item but acknowledging I had a problem.

I opted to check the steering head myself. When I started the strip down, it became apparent why early intervention is needed here, unless you have a rare bike with grease in it! I know the manual for the Mandello states a ridiculous torque value for the steering stem nut, but I had to buy an appropriate socket for the stem nut and then use an impact driver to get the nut undone. It looks to me that the steering stem in the Mandello is aluminium, irrespective of the material, the stem nut was corroded on, not just tight.

Unfortunately, this meant the top bearing inner race had also corroded onto the steering stem which would not drop out or knock out with a hefty rubber mallet. It took ten days of soaking in penetrating oil before it finally moved and only then as I lost patience and used a hardwood block and club hammer to drift it out. The top bearing set was horribly rusty and completely knackered to use a technical term, the lack of lubrication self-evident – not a hint of grease. The bottom race was less bad, but still beyond reuse.

I’ve changed a few steering head bearing sets in my time but this one was the most difficult to do due to the lack of clearance to get anything below the bearing seats in the headstock. I would strongly advise taking the bike to a workshop and getting them to do the job if your bearings need replacing.

If I can upload them, I’ll add a few photos of the various elements as I found them.

Having done the jobs myself, I now have confidence that the various components are appropriately lubricated and know their condition, which will give me some peace of mind going forwards and hopefully fewer issues in the medium to long term.

If anyone wants me to go into further detail/specifics as relate to the Mandello, feel free to drop me a message and I’ll do what I can.

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Thanks Bonny! A great write up and disgustingly scary! This stuff is just indefensible on a ‘premium brand’ motorcycle. My Mandello only recently acquired before winter still has just short of 5k miles but suggests to me I need to bite the bullet and get into at least the drive shaft and swing arm items for peace of mind. The steering head, as you say, is a different level of faff just because of major deconstruction needed just to get access to comfortably be able to work on it. By comparison, not too long ago I did the sterring head bearings on an 11yr old Kawasaki with just under 40k miles , swapped to needle rollers and the OEM’s were actually in pretty good nick considering. Swing arm shaft and drop links were damn near perect.

It’s just very disappointing to see this stuff.

Thanks for the feedback. I absolutely agree with you, hence my comment about a love-hate relationship in part based on expectations for the brand/price bracket.

What is worth saying, if you just want to check/grease the steering head, I don’t think you need to strip all the fairings off - removing them does take a bit of time but is not difficult as an aside. If you remove front wheel, brakes. Mudguard etc, you only need to drop the handlebars off and you can get at the steering head to undo and drop it out complete with forks. That would shortcut the process significantly and is in fact how I started the job. I then realised I would have to change the bearings and had to take the bodywork off for clearance and access.

Whatever you do, any intervention at this stage can only help if you’re planning on a long term relationship with your bike. Good luck!

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I had same concerns regarding the shortage of grease in Italy !, got my 21 V7 Centenario in October last year with 700 miles on it , stripped the steering head & bevel box expecting little or no grease , wasn’t disappointed !, cleaned of the traces of rust on splines , reset bearings , changed all fluids , took it over Alps in June , stripped off the swing arm this winter, checked , adjusted bearings , changed fluids again , [ no sign of contamination ],all ready for spring &ferry’s booked for coming June !,

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I hear you and that is useful. In my head I can see that if all looks undeteriorated in the head then getting it greased up and reset is not too hard work. Just nuts’n bolts.

That is best case scenario. If however I found a bit of a mess I’d be tempted to go the whole hog and do new bearings and cups, probably needle rollers as before. It’s happlily not an expensive job if DIY. Just a pain!

The back end looks pretty straightforward and not greatly time consuming so that’s worth a look whatever. Thanks for the input! Dave

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Well done John! Wish I was not such a lazy assed old fart! :sweat_smile:

Cheers Dave , might catch up with you again in the coming year at the layby/ piss stop down from gleneagles !!

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I own a California 1100 EV and have Just replaced a broken speedo cable insert and used a product called cablelube. I have also replaced the fuel filter the revs have increased slightly which reads 1000 rpm.

Has any one got vibration problems through their handlebars. I did a dampner fix which has reduced the vibs by a lot. I used 3mm thickness silicon hose, cut to the profile of the head stock were the bars rest on and wow what a difference.

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Ha! Busted! :laughing: More than likely to happen I’m sure but not until the thermometer starts to impress me a little more. I’m not as weatherproof as I used to be!

Excellent point(s) Bonny and well explained.

Just what we should be using the Forums for, now that winters arrived, especially today up here in Ice Station Zebra :scotland: or Peterhead as the rest of the world calls it!

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The lack of greasing of critical components from the factory is shocking.

I’ve just acquired a 2004 V11 Sport and although it’s only covered 5000 miles I will now check the splines and bearings. Might as well do it now while the temp is hovering around zero and the roads up here in the north Pennines are covered in salt daily.

Thanks for the heads up about the potential problem areas.

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I’ve heard folk are asking about what shims to use and where to find them.

Bonny and I used these placed between the top hat inner races and the black plastic thrust washers.

https://www.accu.co.uk/shim-washers/399119-HSHN-22-30-0-3-A2

I bought four each of 0.3 and 0.5mm shims. This allows 0.1 mm increments once you’re over the 0.5 clearance. This was enough to do both mine and Bonny’s machines.

Now, I got these before I dismantled the machine, based on trying to work out possible failure modes and trying to work out various parts’ dimensions so I had parts in hand before taking it apart. Next time I’d go a little higher on the outer diameter and get these

https://www.accu.co.uk/shim-washers/399126-HSHN-22-32-0-3-A2

Again, same number and sizes. It should just give a little more coverage over the thrust washers. But bear in mind these are untested by us.

During the process, though, I also wanted to cover the possibility ( at the time I thought it the more likely failure mode ) that it was the opposite issue. If the thrust washer clearance was too tight, it’d be clamping up there and potentially allowing the spindle to slop around inside the inner races. So I threw in the same sizes of these.

https://www.accu.co.uk/shim-washers/399113-HSHN-16-22-0-3-A2

These would be placed between the inner race and the spacer to ensure the spindle clamps the inner races tightly. Both of ours needed the clearance tightening, so these are unused.

This issue must be caused by variation in production tolerances so it’s entirely possible the stack-up could go either way. So far I’ve only seen resolution in a couple of cases and they’ve both been inner race/thrust washer gap. I’d be interested to hear about what others find once they strip theirs down.