Absolutely. I wrote an article in May/June Gambalunga about these very issues.
Discs. Mine did the same. Floating discs shouldn’t warp, so I don’t know the whole story. I DTI’d my discs and found them to measure up ok, but they still gave that big fluctuation in braking. I tried cleaning the bobbins with the flange nuts and brake cleaner trick, but didn’t improve it. My dealer put it all through as a warranty claim. New discs and pads and that cured it. That was about 8 months and 2,000 miles ago now.
Suspension. The problem appears to be way too little preload. Now, your problem is suspension that feels too firm, but hear me out. Without enough preload the shock is almost completely compressed. This has the dampers running with very little travel, and in the wrong place for them to work. That’s why changing modes has no tangible effect; I could tell no difference. The hardness you’re feeling is because the shock has a total of 65mm of travel ( IIRC ) but the bump stop is 25mm thick and takes up a significant amount of that. You’re riding around on the bump stop most of the time.
I found that if I put the preload on max, the semi-active suspension started working for me solo and I could feel the difference in the modes. I’m about 65kg so most riders will find they need more than that. Also, most of my riding is two-up so this wasn’t an adequate solution for me. Quite apart from the fact that now the machine was so tall I had to slide sideways off the seat when coming to a stop.
Solutions. For me, the answer was to shorten the stroke rod by 8mm, which had the effect of increasing the pre-load such that the new minimum was equivalent to the old maximum, and also lowered the back end by about an inch. Effective mechanical advantage of the suspension geometry is about 3:1. I also had the bump stop shaved quite significantly to restore some of the travel. It now rides brilliantly for me solo and I can make full use of the different suspension modes. I could do with a bit more pre-load when two-up fully-loaded, but it’s actually brilliant there, too.
My mate, who’s bigger than me, didn’t want it lower and does mostly solo work, took a different approach. The spring seat at the bottom which is part of the pre-load adjuster is threaded onto the shock body. His Ohlins specialist dismantled the shock and ran the collar three turns up ( I think that’s what he said ) which gave it an increase of about 8mm of pre-load. He also had the bump stop shaved to give more travel. Now it handles brilliantly for him, too. We’d both wondered if we needed higher spring rates, but stayed with the standard and it seems to work when set up properly like this.
What we did find was the damping oil was black, smelly and the shock was full of black stuff. This appears to be an Ohlins thing. I have a feeling that we may be in for 15000 mile shock servicing.