nevada classic tyre change

need to replace rear tyre, 130/90-18 , can this be done with bike on center stand or does it need to be higher ? Best way to lift bike?

Never had that model but Googled pictures - looks like, what I would do is remove the number plate holder. From what I’ve read this also helps for my 2021 V7 850, but not tried it yet. Has to be better than removing the shocks, which just sounds nuts to me. :open_mouth:

Silencers still have to come off tho. But that’s not complicated.

I have no experience of the Nevada models, but on my Spada, I either lay the bike over into my lap to get the wheel out or put some planks under the centre stand to get enough clearance to get the wheel out past the rear mudguard.

The owners manual is likely to tell you the official way and should be available on The Guzzitek
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Thanks for that, plank under centre stand and numbers plate off sounds easy enough, I have a couple of bike Jack’s but can’t see any where nice to put them.

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It’s a right load of grief getting wheel out. I have a hydraulic platform c/w removeable plate for rear wheel removal. I still let my local MOT station source and fit the tyre having ridden the bike to them. Nevada Classic ie 2007

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So I started by putting 2 inch blocks under centre stand, removed number plate ,measured wheel and I think there is room to pull straight out.

Caliper mounting bracket alen bolt stuck solid.other side of bolt there is a alen bolt? with a striped head and it has been drilled out, hole right through middle to other side.. So somebody has done a bodge of sorts.

Should the caliper mounting bolt be hollow ? Looks like the end of bolt is a pin that locates bracket and stops it from spinning.

any suggestions please.

And you might notice front tyre on rear with rotation arrow going the wrong way, the reason why the need to change tyre

Re the tyre, if using a front tyre on the back the rotation of the tyre is reversed because of the construction of the tyre carcass, front tyre gets loaded by the braking forces, rear gets loaded by the acceleration forces, hence the direction swap👍

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Maybe so, but it’s a mot failure

The bolt on my 2007 Nevada and former Breva 750 were both created an anchor spigot which went into a blind slot in the caliper hander. That bolt has a really tight fine thread and I copper slip mine to billeeow. Have fun. Good reason not to do it yourself.

thanks for that, It looks like the original bolt with spigot has been drilled and tapped, and another allen bolt has been screwed into it from the other side. looks like someone else has failed to undue it ! ,and tryed to dill it out as there is a hole right through both bolts.

If you decide to try and get it out, then apply heat and plenty of it to the aluminium to help free the bolt off.

Smug face… Hinged rear mudguard, just saying! :innocent:

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Hi Don, Its all soaking in release oil for the moment, If I cant unscrew the allen bolt on the inside of bracket, the plan is to cut the head of it ,and it should undo as it was meant to. Don’t know why it’s been modified like this.

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There isn’t a “<< Rear <<” on the other side of tyre?

no not seeing rear on other side

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OK then, so it’s a ‘front tyre only’. Did bike do an MOT test already and failed or are you expecting it to fail when it does?

Hi Mike, I have just bought bike with mot expired, I did not like the look of rear tyre when I bought it and earmarked it for replacement. Put it in for mot and that’s what it failed on. I have a pair of new tyres to fit ,but the rear caliper locating pin is giving me grief. Its cold and wet up here in Scotland so I have till spring to fix it

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Okie-doke – pretty much the same darn sarf if possibly a bit warmer. :grinning_face:

Heat + penetrating oil and a big lever finally got the bolt out. Deflate tyre remove shocker and wheel fell out. No problem.

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