Hi All,
nice to be here. I am new and based in Exeter.
I have recently purchased a brand-new V7 850 Special 2023.
Previously, I was riding 125 only around UK and beyond (last summer I toured France, Switzerland and Italy).
I have a few beginner questions if you can help me:
Temperature is in Fareneight…cannot be changed to Celsius? I did not get what the manual says (I think they only show a procedure for the V7 stone).
How would you polish the chrome parts, exhaust included? Do you recommend any products>
I think my left exhaust is turning brown at the bend. Is it corrosion or just an effect of the heat? What I should do?
Any leather good-looking pannier you want to recommend?
Thanks in advance for any reply
I am looking forward to riding in the nice weather.
Hi Alessandro! Unfortunately I cant answer your questions apart from the one about chrome. I use Autosol on my 2004 Breva…sporadically. Maybe a chrome expert will answer. I work in Exeter and was there today on a ride with friends. We have a West Devon branch meeting at the Avon Inn at Avonwick first Saturday 12noon March to October. Hope you can come.
Greetings, I also have V7 850 Special. The setting up is the same…
Instrument panel configuration
Press MODE button repeatedly to get the odometer display (if not in it already).
Press and hold down the “MODE” button when in “ODOMETER” mode to access the following advanced functions:
Gear shift indicator threshold (SET GEAR SHIFT)
Change odometer unit of measurement (SELECT UNIT (Km/mi))
Change consumption indicator unit of measurement (SELECT UNIT (L/100 - Km/L - US mpg - IMP mpg))
Change thermometer unit of measurement (SET UNIT °C - °F)
Press mode to choose 1 - 4 (press 1 - 4 times). When on the one you want, hold mode button to enter that choice.
Set unit °C - °F “Change thermometer unit of measurement”
This function is used to select the unit of measurement for ambient temperature. From this mode, press the “MODE” button and quickly release to toggle between the two units of measurement available:
°C
°F
Press and hold down the “MODE” button to save the setting. The instrument panel returns to the “ODOMETER” screen.
The others pretty much work the same way.
I don’t do a lot of polishing, I mostly spray the shiny bits with ACF50 and spread it around with my fingers. Has worked so far. What has made a bit of work is keeping the leather seat looking good, I use Duck Wax, comes in a plastic tub, apply with enclosed sponge, and buff up with a cloth. Also good for your boots.
Thanks Mike for the explanation.
I will try it soon
Yes, I used AC50 and after your suggestions, I am going to buy duck wax and autosol.
I like chrome but it is quite a pain to keep it in pristine conditions, especially considering the muddy and salty roads…
I’ve just remembered something. The rear grab rail, underneath at the back, where it curves around the back, are two tiny holes. I spray a bit of ACF50 into here as well (needs the spray tube extension). After a few ‘treatments’, should be a fair bit in there by now.
Appendix: WD40 can be used as well, I’ve done both.
Welcome to the club and the forum.
The brown exhaust is a fault. Not common and yet no t unknown. Let the dealer/people servicing it know. If it’s in warranty they should replace and double check valve settings and fuelling. Good luck
Steve
heat does that, as long as both sides look even i wouldn’t worry. - edit just re read your comment is only one side, yes maybe fuelling or something else off.
mine are considerably less shiny and dirty/discoloured, but under the grime both are a bit purple at the first bend in the downpipe and browny silver further down. bike still runs great 21k miles on.
Autosol in tubes has abrasive and should not be used on chrome, rather use Autosol liquid chrome cleaner that is kinder to the chrome and does a great job.
Yes there is a difference, the tube stuff has abrasives in it and is great for polishing aluminium, stainless steel and brass where the finish is the metal itself and not a plating such as chrome, it wears off the chrome.
The liquid stuff I believe used to be sold in my youth as 3 in 1 chrome cleaner, not only does it remove rust but it protects against it.
Autosol Metal polish is also indicated for chrome but as you said Chris it has abrasives, so might be useful to use it on already damaged parts rarely.
I might pay a visit earlier to the dealer to check a few things before the first service.
I also think the headlight has not been adjusted correctly and is too high than normal.
Anyway, hope it is nothing serious.
If the weather is not miserable, I will go for a 100-150 mile ride and see how she is doing,
I do a fair bit of leatherwork, bags, panniers etc, just in the process of making a seat. I prefer mink oil, as pure as you can get it. I made my saddle bags on my 18th birthday and am now nudging 70. They were used every day commuting all year round and on tour. They still look good. Paste is a common form and will work well. Apply, let it soak in for a few hours then buff. For leather, nothing is waterproof. If you ride in a monsoon, make a cover for it. When it gets wet, do not force dry, then apply treatments as needed but not too often!
I use the paste on stainless steel, brass and aluminium as it has abrasive and these materials are solid not a coating, meaning that you can use the paste to erode the surface because there is more of the same material below.
I use the liquid on chrome as it is a thin plating, if you use the paste it is likely to wear away the thin coating. The liquid also protects against rust (allegedly)
For “chrome” on plastic trim (only on my car) I use soap and water.
Hi Chris,
I will buy the autosol liquid you showed me and use the paste only for emergencies.
On the other hand, I have not clue if the wheels/mirrors are chrome/stainless steel —solid or thin plating.
How do I recognize that?
All chrome is a thin coating, it is an electro plating usually on mild steel. It will show signs of rust when not maintained, you will also be able to attach a magnet to it. Usually you will find wing mirrors, instrument bezels and crash bars will be chrome plated mild steel (get your magnet ready!)
Aluminum is not magnetic and also some but not all stainless steel. Ferritic stainless steel (grades 409, 430 and 439) and Martensitic stainless steel (grades 410, 420 and 440) are magnetic. Austenitic stainless steel (grades 304 and 316) is non-magnetic. This is generally the type used on motorcycles, fasteners and mudguards for example.
A few beginner questions.
I noticed that the dealer did not change the settings after my first service.
The traction control is still set to MGCT=2 and a warning light flashes when I go above 4,500 rpm
The manual says that I can change both settings by myself.
SET GEAR SHIFT L and H ? What are they Does it mean Low and High? The H is set to 8,000 but in the same manual, there is the limitation of 7,200 rpm by the ECU. Really confused about what I need to change and if this affects the performance or not (I mean, is it just to avoid the flashing or is the engine limited if I do not change that?)
MGCT should be 2 during the run-in and in slippery conditions. I will try to change it to 1. Do you know if it makes a lot of difference?
All the ‘gear shift’ does is change the rpm when the red light flashes. I changed mine to 5,500 as I rarely go that far.
Ignition on, press ‘mode’ to get ‘odometer’ display. Press and hold mode to get into settings. I can’t remember if the first is ‘gear low’, click to increment then press and hold to go to ‘gear high’, then again click to increment, instructions are not clear and I can’t remember, but press and hold to exit. Red light flashes at ‘gear L’ point and is solid lit at ‘gear H’.
MGCT 1 - 2 is done with the starter button, believe it or not. To work, engine must be running. A short press of the start button switches between levels 1 and 2. A long press > 3 seconds disables the traction control, or re-enables it (if set to off).
Can’t remember if you have to have the MGCT display in the LCD screen showing, maybe not.
The level 1 or 2 is memorised for next ignition switch on and start-up, but traction control is always enabled by default. I.e. if was disabled when you turned ignition off, it will be re-enabled when you turn it back on. Not kill switch tho, only ignition key.
