Hi,
I have a Mille GT - it’s a mongrel because it came with clip-ons and rearsets. Also, no grab rail - and different instrument fitment (because of no handlebars). It’s all in pieces now. I’m not sure yet exactly what I’ll do with it, but everything seems to need attention. Anyway, I’ll post stuff as I work on it. Just wanted to say hello…
Nick
Welcome. Good luck with the project
Welcome to the forum. Good luck with the rebuild. I have worked on bikes in every room but never the bathroom! 
Thanks, both.
The bike is in a million pieces right now - and as I said, there’s a great deal of work to do. For example, the engine is on the workbench, but the timing chest cover still very tightly attached to the frame - I’ll get it off eventually! The cylinder heads both had broken fins - I’ve sourced a decent-seeming pair from Gutsibits.
There’s loads of other issues…
The sump plug on the gearbox spins in stripped threads - a previous owner had ‘sealed’ it with Plastic Padding, resulting in the whole machine being utterly filthy. I think there’s a very real difference between patina and plain oily dirtiness! I haven’t worked out how/ whether to get in to helicoil it. I don’t really have a strong desire to re-build the whole gearbox. (also, I can’t undo the speedo cable, which seems very mangled)
When I removed the bevel drive, the swinging arm had a load of EP90 in it. I suppose a seal in the bevel needs replacing. I’ll get to it eventually… But at least the UJ looks and feels OK…
The forks looked ok, but in removing them from the triple-tree, I’ve managed to mangle the top nuts. I haven’t worked out how these are fixed yet - although they’re attached to the dampers, they are obviously not part of them. I guess that’ll be another purchase second-hand.
On the positive front, I’ve cleaned and re-built the PHF30 carbs. So they’re looking good. But as the bike came to me, the choke on one was connected to a (unattached to anything else) cable, and on the other one the cable had either snapped or been cut away. So, once I’m getting things back together, I’ll need to work out a proper choke arrangement. Funnily enough, the engine did run and idle OK.
Every piece of coloured plastic on the bike was damaged. Either cracked, broken or hanging loose. I’m not sure whether to try and repair or replace them. I’m thinking I need to retain what I can, not least because the shape of the tank needs a visual continuation (I think the tank is the same as on the T5, SP II, Strada 1000 and maybe the Spada 3) - but the jury isn’t assembled yet.
The exhausts are good! But the downpipes and cross-pipe are rusty (though they do seem sound, even if I can’t separate the downpipes from the cross-pipe).
Anyway - once I’ve managed to join the club properly, I’ll probably have lots of questions to post in the technical forums.
Nick
Hi Nick,
The Bristol and Bath section of the club is just getting back up on its feet after lockdown. We are considering new meeting places at the moment, but are quite likely to be at our usual Cross Keys in Combe Down tomorrow night from around 7 if you wanted to meet other locals. We normally have a meal there.
Jim
I don’t think there is a seal in the front of the bevel box. On both of my bikes, some oil gets thrown forward to lubricate the pinion bearing and it then drains back through some little slots. I can’t remember what the Tonti bike is like, but on my loop a previous owner had put it back together wrongly so that the slots were blocked. It then filled up the swinging arm and some oil overflowed into the gearbox. Sorted now.
Ian
Ah - okay. Thanks for that. I’ve just looked, and although I can’t see any slots, I can’t see a seal either. Behind the nut that seems to hold it all together, there’s just a bearing. So, I can see that maybe the swinging arm having lots of oil in it might be due to the way the whole thing sat for half an hour when I removed it from the frame.
I found some useful information here: http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/index.php?p=finaldrive, but it’s a little difficult to see what’s going on. there does seem to be a seal (Item ‘P’ in figure 1) - and that looks to be well inside the box. I’ll keep researching. I’d rather not dismantle if I don’t need to - although I’ve seen plenty of instruction, I know that setting up the bevel itself can be very difficult. I’ll keep you posted…
Nick
… and I have a definitive answer, from Rolf in Norway, who rebuilds Guzzi gearboxes and bevel drives. He agrees with you that there’s no sealing there. So, I don’t need to take the bevel box apart.
Phew.
Nick