Just had an MOT and the MOT man pointed out the slack/movement/rock up and down in the rear suspension double con rod. He said I don’t know if that is normal on these bikes, might be a good idea to check. Here I am checking. Any advice please? Thanks.
Sorry for the bad news…there should be no slack - the 7 bearings involved start off as needle rollers running smoothly on 4 machined steel sleeves.
Due to the them being low in the water blast off the road and the back wheel they slowly evolve into a rust-on-rust-bushing-system 
(same as in 80s and 90s Kawasaki)
Once this happens the only way is replacement. When i did it the cost of the 7 individual bearings, 8 oil seals and 4 machined bushes added up to more then the double conrod and the single conrod or wishbone - but they are expensive currently Gutsibits want around £500 for the two but also advertise some second hand ones https://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheShop/index.php?q=conrod&f=d&Model=0&search=SEARCH It has to be a yearly job to remove and regrease them 
If you are prepared to try and dismantle the assembly, you can get an engineering company to make up some hardened steel pins and get the bearings from simply bearings
For instance
Mind you Brian the amount of rust-dust outside the seals looks like that one has already died
Agreed, it may be possible find better.
What you can’t see is if the pins have brinelling on them.
Another example I found
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Yes that looks possible
4 of mine showed a textbook example of brinelling lol.
I used outboard grease in the bearings and fabbed up a long mudflap to go between the wheel and the linkage - but still seems a yearly regrease job.
I’ve done that too, a hugger just funneled water onto the disc.
That white grease is good gear 
Thank you for the tips and the leads on spares. I cannot find anything in the owners manual on doing the job so I assume it is: remove yoke and three point unit and hope you can knock out the bearings. I had to look up Brinelling and hope I am not going to have to report it is in evidence 
I have white grease but thought the best was the bronze one?
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the copper coloured grease is frequently anti-seize paste rather than grease.
Marine grease (frequently white) resists immersion and salt (a bit). Outboard motor grease is similar but thicker.
The workshop manual looks available on the Gregory Bender site This Old Tractor
Thank you for the info. I will get some outboard grease.
The manual I was given by PO is Owners not Workshop so I’ll investigate. Thank you again.