Norge starting problems

I have a 57 plate Norge 4 valve which now exhibits the ‘click and no crank’ starting problem. A new battery has not solved it.
I understand there is a fix, however I am a complete novice at wiring repairs and thus wiring diagrams are completely alien to me. Does anyone have step by step photographs of the fix?
Thanks in anticipation.
Mick :slight_smile:

I can’t help with the kit, but one thing I would suggest is to clean up the main earth contact. It is on the top/side of the gear box on the left hand side so you will have to remove the lower fairing to get to it.

You could also check the contacts on the starter motor and solenoid while you are at it.

Might not solve the problem but certainly won’t do any harm.

Thank you for responding I will do both!


The only difficult bit which you do get on the kit from the States is the relay connector block, other wise you can get the single connector out with a jewellers screwdriver and put the new one [spade connector] with the inline fuse holder and ring connector - bit vague but have a google or look at the Guzzi Tech link.

The kit is expensive and from the states if I remember correctly; you can achieve the same thing with an inline fuse link from Halfords that has a battery O connector [ring connector]. if you happen to have a local car parts shop, they wil quite often do littlke jobs for yo if you ask, so it may be once you have seenwhat you want that they can make it up.

this may give you a better idea of what is involved

example of some of the parts

example connector

Hello Brian,

I went to a local car parts supplier and picked up an in line waterproof ‘flat fuse’ holder and a couple of 15 amp fuses. The most challenging part, for me is knowing what the correct relay looks like.
I have seen 2 different diagrams that refer to a relay numbered 1 to 5. On one it suggests that the wire at position 5 should be removed and replaced with the new, direct to battery wire and the other suggests that it should be the wire at position 3 that should be removed. This is the one that suggests position 3.
and this position 5

Thanks in advance for your help.

I am pretty sure its the yellow wire and its the starter relay. The good thing about having a spare lead is that it is a switched live.

The other benefit is that the current will not be going through the ignition switch and associated plug/socket any more

if you trace on the wiring diagram back from the starter motor (the solenoid wire) - might be grey /red it will take you to the relay. Shouldn’t matter which diagram (I used a Norge diagram on my sport)

The first link is the one and later model picture (after first example)

“Remove yellow wire from pin 3 and tape it up. Then add new connection from pin 3 to battery positive via a fuse.
One advantage to doing this is that the yellow wire you remove could be used as a switched power source for any accessory.
This mod also bypasses the fuse which sometimes blows when hitting the start button”

Hi Brian,

thank you for taking the time to reply.
I will be attempting to resolve the issue in the next week or so. (My bike is in my lock up so I don’t get there as often as I would like). I promise to let you know how I get on!


Hi Brian,
thank you for the advice, I carried out the re-wire and it all works!

Looking for ward to a bit of summer riding now.