Hi Chaps!
Someone posted on here about problems with his V50 only working on one side.
I am having the same problem. Symptoms are:
Reluctant to start and then only initially on left side.
All seemed well yesterday but after about 25 miles (happily nearly home) - the right side cut out after initially cutting in and out.
Prior to this over the winter, I have changed a few things - namely condensers to the correct round fitting ones. I intend to put the old one back and see.
However - I reckon it may be fuel related. I had previously replaced the spider fuel connector as the pipework was bad - but fuel is definitely getting through.
Right hand plug looks ok but a bit cleaner than left - no surprises there.
Could it be a sticking float on RHS?
Anyway - the bod who posted originally said he’s fixed it but did not say what the problem was!
Oh - I realise I’ve had the fuel taps on “reserve” - could taht introduce any muck?
Any ideas?
Cheers
Simon
Try testing the spark , have the plug in the plug cap resting on the cylinder head and turn it over, if it doesn’t spark then it is electrical. Trace the wires from the coils and check all connectors. Check the HT lead and the connections between lead and coil/plug cap (or swap from left hand side)
As you mention condensors, I assume it is the mark 3 version with points rather than electronic ignition. The first thing is always to try and identify if it is spark or fuel, not always easy. A good call to put the old condensors back on, I have heard of a fair few faulty new ones.
good clean out of the carbs is always a good plan when fault finding. They are not difficult, I use carb cleaner and a bit of fine wire to clean out every little passage way, drilling etc. You could swap the carbs over temporarily to see if the fault moves to the other side.
Check and clean the points, check the connections ono the coils.
Where abouts are you? Maybe there is someone local that could give a second opinion.
Not used over winter – unfortunately modern petrol can leave a nasty residue if left in carbs to evaporate. Often a hard green or brown deposit that can stick to the sides of float chambers and floats, anf bung up jets. Ask me how I know. Just one more thing to consider if you think it’s fuel related.
Many thanks all!
I possibly have (not sure)
Basically the symptoms when the RHS cylinder cut out (and poor starting) are very “out of fuel” - stuttering, loss of power and then nowt!
I swapped over the condenser anyway even though - yes - there was a good spark.
I then noticed the RHS carb was a bit on the pi$$. Basically when I put it back on I didn’t align it vertically. I initially didn’t think it was enough to cause a problem but if the float and needle are a bit sticky anyway - who knows?
Anyway - touched the strter and both sides burst into like!
I cut the engine off as I can’t ride it at the moment as working and don’t want a load of condensation building up in the silencers - but it was a good omen.
If the problem persists then I think a carb strip down is in order. If that happens can I ask one quick Q?
Does the choke mechanism just unscrew from the side via the one screw?
Cheers Everyone!
Simon
The choke (Cold start plunger) lifts out once you undo the single screw. The rubber at the bottom is known to perish over time and cause rich running problems. Replacements are available.
The carbs are very simple, don’t be afraid of pulling them apart and cleaning them out. For any replacement parts you may need, Eurocarb are very good. You will also find an exploded diagram of all parts in the section for your carb. Pay attention to the plunger in the main jet tube - in the middle of the picture below, mine was clogged up with muck (Assuming the V50 has one) in the picture below.
NB: the piston in middle of the above photo, is hollow and contains a tiny plastic ball. This is a ball valve and closes to push a squirt of petrol up when the slide and needle are raised. Ergo a very simple kind of accelerator pump. This is a feature of the VHB carburettor, again we’re assuming that’s what you have.
Well, we may have cracked it!
Stripped the carb and the first thing I noticed was that the float had no movement and was in the lower position.
Basically the float jet (if that’s what you call it) had unscrewed itself (not tightened by someone) and therefore was keeping the valve closed. I guess enough fuel would seep by to start the engine but obviously would then cut out as the engine used more than was filling the bowl.
Will try later and see…
Just one more thing to consider if you think it’s fuel related.
