Sorry. Should be drinks can. The drinks Nan is a topic for another day😏
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As the cap is beyond repair and you will have to buy a new one anyway, I think cutting a slot would be your best bet. Cut it to one side where you can swing a big hammer and use a cold chisel at a shallow angle to rotate the cap, as Old Rat suggested above.
These caps can be a problem as the underside is open to the air and the tend to rust. Don’t worry too much about applying heat as the engine gets hot under normal use anyway.
Best of luck.
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Brilliant - cheers 
Im married to a nan now a great grandma who likes the odd can 
or wine 
or jack daniels 
I like the idea of putting the others back in to relieve pressure on the errant one, also before you try to loosen the offending item (Impact driver or not), try tightening it up first. Has worked for me in the past to break the lock and the bolt head will not be rounded in that direction. Beer can shim is also good after drinking contents. Finally, Use copper slip
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For a similar problem way back, for drilling out bolt, I purchased a set of left hand drill bits. When in use, after starting to drill the hole, often they land up unscrewing the bolt without needing an extractor tool. 13 piece set for under £13 ebay
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Brilliant - many thanks for the suggestions. I’m awaiting delivery of the torx bits. Have become distracted by Valentines 
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Hahaha - there’s always someone somewhere worse off
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Got a chance to progress the bike today. Tried the ‘beer can’ method - no go.
So cut a groove in the cap and …… hey presto, it moved!
All fairly easy after that. Thought I’d post a few pic’s out of interest.
Many thanks for all the helpful advice. The valve clearances were tight, so worth doing.
Next stop is points and fueling (r/h cylinder is rich) and then the front brake.
Thanks again,
Steve
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Well done that man. Tempting to give up sometimes.
At the risk of…… torque the cylinder bolts after 500 miles or so as the gasket will have compressed a wee bit.
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Good idea - thanks
While you have the head off, did you check the condition / material of the cylinder surface? Originally the T3 would have chrome bores and if so, these must be changed as the chrome peels off and goes through the engine bearings. They may have been replaced by Gilardoni nickasil cylinders (which are stamped Gilardoni between the first and second fins). If you don’t have these cylinders, I would strongly recommend changing them. The kit including cylinders, pistons and rings was only about £600 last time I bought one for my V7 Sport. Alternative is to have the cylinders replated and use new rings, but this isn’t much cheaper. This is how they start to give way…
20200525_155540 by Derek Wardell, on Flickr
Well done Steve. See, brute force and ignorance is all you need!!! 
Nik
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Pencil still looks useable
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Dead right - it’s on EBay (no reserve)
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Thanks for the heads up - it all looked good but I’ll keep my eye out when I drop the sump to change the oil filter
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Another option to remove a mashed Allen headed bolt if all else fails is to drill the head off.
That may allow assemblies to be parted. After that the offending stud left behind can then be drilled out.
A little extreme maybe but can make some progress on parting items. It depends also on how good you are at broken stud removal… I used to do a Field Service for stripped threads and broken bolts, used get some right 'orrible jobs to do.
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See Haydens’ comment above re left-hand drill bits. That was going to be my final, nuclear solution!
Fortunately, I didn’t need it. I’m not very experienced in these types of circumstances. Sometime my ‘solutions’ can get out of hand 
Gratefully, this instance has a happy ending
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I take it that the cheque is in the post? 
Sorry to here that the “Nan” didn’t work, I was quite hoping it would!