Thought I’d give my rear calliper a clean and get it reàdy for winter, it has some rust even though only done 5000 miles. Have been unable to get pad retaining pins out, bit worried I may have rounded off internal Allen as well, think it might be ok with a socket tapped right in but don’t want to risk my own attempt in case I make it worse. Fo you think I should take it to a mechanic to get it out? How are they supposed to be removed ? Shame I was hoping to give it regular treatment over the winter months, it’s not working very well already.
Once it’s out I think you can get stainless, use to have this problem with my Trident.
Just IMO, removing silencer gets more working room, and comes off and goes back real easy, provided screws come undone!
This is why I had mine apart and copper greased everything while still virtually brand new.
Those ‘grub screw’ like Allen key pad retaining screws are notorious, I first came across these on a Piaggio maxi-scooter, fortunately mine came out but it’s not unknown to have to drill them out or replace the caliper. These are loctited at assembly which gets more stubborn with time so sooner than ASAP remove and replace with copper grease. I’ve never had any come loose because of that. Ditto grease the caliper sliding pins else they will seize also. This is all made worse by that the caliper is underslung below the disc, stupid place to put it as it catches all the road spray off the front tyre.
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PS: you might try a tight fitting hex bit hammered in instead of an Allen key, see if that shifts it.
I’m wondering if wheel should come off and put caliper back with spindle to give more room. Although I’m a bit reluctant to start using an impact driver in case I do some damage so might just go in to my local bike shop.
Before trying the removal of the bolt again get some fairly serious heat on the caliper, even 2-3 minutes with a hair dryer or judicious application of a plumbers torch. Heat serves to melt the loctite. BTW that tip I picked up from the Loctite website.
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